Ouray! Ice Climbing!

Posted on March 23, 2014 by rockmaven56

Me and my climbing bud, Karen on the bridge above the Ouray Ice Park.
Photo credit: Terri Barry

Every since I took my ice climbing class in January 2011 I have wanted to go to the Ouray Ice Park. On January 2, 2014 I shared to my Facebook page an article about ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Park on a blog I follow. My comment on the post was “Must. Go. To. Ouray.” Early the morning of January 3 my friend Karen responded with “Let’s Go!” And my twitter/fb friend Diane responded “Come on down! We live just 45 minutes away, and it’ll be an opportunity to finally meet in person.” Karen suggested we drive. That removed my final reservation about airfare and rental car costs. By January 6 the trip was a go. We would to be in Ouray February 12-17. Wow, I didn’t see that coming at the New Year!

Karen had been to Ouray several years ago when she took a Chicks with Picks ice climbing class. Base on her familiarity we made a list of what equipment we would need. We planned to top rope, neither of us lead on ice. This would be a bit of a landmark trip for both of us. Karen was excited to return to Ouray on her own. I was the more experienced outdoor and ice climber of the two of us and would be the “lead” in terms of setting up anchors. In the past I had always been one of several experienced climbers, this time it was just me! We also had decided to hire a guide for one day. We agreed that Saturday would be perfect, giving us two days on our own beforehand. Also, the guide would be handy on Saturday since it was the holiday weekend. A guide could help us climb in areas that were logistically more difficult. Karen booked a guide through San Juan Mountain Guides.

Our milage total in 14 hours – Truckee, CA to Ouray, CO. Didn’t even seem to take that long!
Photo credit – Terri Barry

Downtown Ouray. Pretty scenic!
Photo credit: Terri Barry

We left from Truckee, California at 5 am on Wednesday morning. We only stopped for gas so we were in Ouray 14 hours later. Not bad! That night we organized our gear and set the alarm for 6 am. We stayed at the Comfort Inn, which was a great choice. The owners and staff are so friendly, it’s very affordable, and the breakfast is awesome. On Thursday morning we discovered a selection of waffles, eggs, sausage, yogurt, biscuits and gravy, fruit, cereal, oatmeal, coffee, milk, and juice. I listed everything because it was such an impressive spread! We were very well fed and ready for our first day of ice climbing.

Karen at the entrance to the Ouray Ice Park.
Photo Credit – Terri Barry

Day 1- We started out the day walking to the ice park. Karen suggested we walk and I’m really glad she did. As we walked we consulted the guidebook to get the lay of the park. We donned our harnesses, crampons, and helmets at the gate of the park (that’s the rule!). We decide that “Schoolroom” would be the best place to start. The anchors are all located along a catwalk above the climbing area. The anchors are numbered and bolted and there are several WI2 and WI3 climbs to warm up on. We chose our bolts – #10 – and set to constructing our anchor. The anchors at Schoolroom need to be extended, so long static line, cordelette, or webbing is required. I had brought along a 30’ static line. I used several figure-8’s on bights to set up a redundant anchor with two opposite and opposed lockers on the master point. Karen examined the anchor and confirmed for herself that it was redundant. Turns out we work very well together. And, yeah, she was ready to set up her own anchor!

Now, it was time to walk down to the base of the climb. We encountered an icy and steep trail down to the bottom of the canyon. There is a rope hand line to use but with a heavy pack it was a little unnerving. With caution we made it. At the bottom of the canyon I would find my potential waterloo – a ladder bridge over the creek. I’m not known for my log crossing ability so seeing the ladder bridge definitely gave me a pause. I held my breath and took short, careful steps. I managed to not fall in! Small victories.

The ladder bridge… I did not like it!
Photo credit – Terri Barry

The climb we set up on anchor #10 is number 60 “Teacher’s Pet” WI3. There were two lines off of the anchor so we got two climbs for one. It was a nice mellow start to the trip. Pretty easy climbing and a good warm-up. We both climbed both lines. Next we headed back up to the catwalk, which involved crossing that ladder bridge again. Good practice for me! We moved our rope to anchor number #9 and the climb is number 61 and is called “Report Card” WI3. We were able to move our anchor as it was constructed since the set-up was the right length for this climb too, that saved some time. That allowed us to easily get two more lines climbed. Four routes of WI3, all 32m, for the first day was ok with us! I felt like I was getting into my climbing groove and Karen was feeling pretty confident too. It was 3:30 and the park closes at 4pm. So, we hiked up to the catwalk and gathered up our rope and anchor materials and headed back to the Comfort Inn. The temperatures the first day were in the 40’s so we weren’t cold at all. I hardly used my down jacket or down mittens when belaying. That was nice but we were wishing it was a little colder. The forecast was not hopeful though, each day was forecasted to be warmer than the last during our trip.

Our first anchor and climb in the Ouray Ice Park!!! Yay!!!
Photo credit: Terri Barry

Day 2 – Once again, after a full breakfast, we walked to the ice park. This was a really nice way to warm up in the morning. And you don’t have to fight for one of the few parking places near the park. I highly recommend walking! We headed back to Schoolroom mulling over whether we would start on a WI4 route. This worked out well because, although we left earlier than the day before, when we got to the Schoolroom there were already lines set up on all the WI2 and WI3 climbs. Get there early, early if you want easier climbs! So, while we debated how quickly to up the difficulty, today it seemed, we would have no choice. We grabbed the WI4 bolts we were standing at, #8. This climb is number 62 “Recess” WI4 in the guide-book. We continued to use the anchor setup from the day before, it worked just as well on this anchor as the previous two. We debated rappelling this time but we both felt a little unsure about climbing over the railing along the catwalk. Maybe next trip. Instead, we walked down the same trail from the day before, the rope hand line was beginning to feel routine and the ladder bridge not so threatening. The climbing lines on this anchor were definitely steeper than those the day before. I started first and really enjoyed getting on some steeper ice. The temperatures were barely freezing over night so the ice was definitely “hero ice” meaning the tools place very easily. The lines on this anchor were really fun! But I was also eyeing the lines to the right, thinking we would move to those bolts (#7) when we were finished. Then, someone yelled “Rope!” and down came a rope on those lines. Happily for us, the group on that anchor was interested to share ropes with us. This turns out to be common at the park. Of course, not everyone wants to share. And, of course, you should check out the anchor before you share. Karen and I were very happy when Thomas (the owner of anchor #7) said our anchor was bomber! We knew that but it was nice to have someone else say it too.

I’ve had the opportunity to ice climb several times each season since my 2010 class. So, I usually feel pretty confident in my climbing. But for Karen, this was the first time she had ice climbed in 2 years. So, understandably, the first day she was a little tentative. But, each day we climbed, she visibly improved. It very so was fun to see her make leaps in technique and confidence each day as she got her ice climbing mojo back. Day 2 plus steeper ice was just what she needed! We both ended the day on 5 lines. Having gotten some great climbing under our belt, we were ready for our Day 3 with San Juan Mountain Guides.

Schoolroom is always busy, even during the week. Get there early!
Photo Credit: Terri Barry

Day 3 – Guide Day! We headed to the San Juan Mountain Guides office at 7:30. We met our guide, Gary, and then found out Gary would have a shadow guide for the day, Jeff. Jeff is already a guide but is working towards his IFMGA Mountain Guide certification. Gary is already a IFMGA Mountain Guide, thus the shadowing. Sweet! This was shaping up to be a great day. Once again, we walked from the office to the park. We let Gary know that we have a couple of objectives: we wanted to build anchors in more challenging areas, climb steeper ice, and work with lowering a climber into to the canyon and then belaying the climber from the top. We started above an area called Alcove. We located a bolt/chain anchor on Route 79 “Dream Team” M4. Setting up the anchor would mean stepping down the slope and clipping in to the chain with our Personal Anchor Systems (PAS) because the master point would be towards the bottom of the chain. First Karen and then I stepped down on to the groove that the chain was in. It wasn’t as steep or difficult as it looked and I felt quite comfortable once I took the first step. Gary handed Karen and I a variety of anchor materials and said, “ok, show me how you’ll build an anchor.” We consulted each other and then set up a very nice anchor based on a Super-8 master-point. Once we were done Gary pointed out that we had left the rope up on the top of the slope. Neither Karen nor I had even thought about the rope. Luckily Jeff was there to hand it to us! Rope in the master-point lockers locked, rope tossed over the edge and we were ready to set up the next anchor. This one was Route 77 “Flamenco” WI4 and involved stepping out on to an exposed slope to anchor off a tree. We had considered this route on Day 1 but the exposure getting to the tree and the need to rappel into the climb had changed our mind. Today it was much easier! Gary showed us how to approach the tree safely and we had no problem setting up the anchor off the tree. Soon we were rappelling into the Alcove and it was time to climb.

Jeff climbs in the Alcove.
Photo credit: Terri Barry

On Flamenco, Gary showed us a demonstration, the delicate ice climbing dance. He moved so fluidly it was fun to watch. Once we started to climb I found that, although I could climb long WI4 pitches relatively easily, my footwork definitely needed improvement. I concentrated on the pattern of tool work and footwork that Gary had demonstrated. I already had the “monkey hang” down from my very first route 2 years ago – it just came very naturally for some reason. But that was Karen’s lesson to work on. She ended the day with a very natural looking “monkey hang.” She remarked how much easier it was to climb once she got the hang, as in “monkey hang,” of it!

Karen looking good climbing in the Alcove.
Photo credit: Jeff Witt

While we were climbing Jeff had set up a line off Route 79 that was all ice rather than a mixed route. It was a very interesting line that started with a shelf to be gained a couple of moves into the route, then some fancy footwork to move to the right and up on to some very steep ice. It was very fun and a little challenging. Perfect way to step up the difficulty. Both Karen and I learned quite a bit on that climb. Once we were finished with that line it was time to move on to the next area. Jeff climbed out on Flamenco and belayed us from the top so Karen and I could climb out side-by-side. We needed to stay level with each other so we had to work together. It was a great challenge for both of us. I actually had an unexpected fall because I wasn’t paying attention to my tools while I waited for Karen. I felt secure while I waited but the ice was softer than I realized due to the warm day and my tool left pulled straight out of the ice towards me while I had my hand off my right took shaking out. Luckily I didn’t get a tool in the face! That was a lesson learned.

Gary, me, and Karen at the top of Pic O’ the Vic. I’m ready to be lowered it!
Photo credit: Jeff Witt

Once on top we disassembled the anchors, coiled the rope and headed to the next climb. This is where we would work on lowering a climber in to the canyon and then belaying from the top. We would do this on the classic route, Route 93 “Pic ‘O the Vic” WI4. We set up our anchor slinging a large tree using the climbing rope and a Follow-Through Figure 8. Then we worked on the lowering setup and how to change to the belay from above, off the anchor set-up. I had done both before but this was new to Karen. She picked it up very quickly and soon Gary was asking me if I was ready to climb. After spending the day together he had (correctly) sized me up as ready to be lowered into the canyon and climb out. Of course I was!!! I was hoping to get on one of these long, steep climbs. Pick ‘O the Vic is 45m. We worked out our signal system since we wouldn’t be able to hear each other. Loud whoops and/or rope tugs. I step backwards toward the edge as Karen lowered. I couldn’t see the bottom for probably the first 10m. Then it finally came into view. It was awesome! So far down there. Karen lowered me smoothly. Towards the bottom the ice disappeared and a giant chasm opened up. My feet were suddenly free in the air. I had to keep myself right and aim for a stable point on the ground as it came up to me. Standing on the ground I though, “uh oh, how do I start this climb?” Then I remembered that Gary said that my route and the route immediately to the right started in the same place. There to my right was a giant pillar. Whew!

That’s me in the blue jacket. I’m climbing Pic O’ the Vic. So, so fun! Gary checking my progress from the top.
Photo credit: Jeff Witt

I made my two whoops but heard none in return. So I waited for rope tugs. When I though I felt them I made a couple of move off the ground but I had slack in the rope that wasn’t pulled up. So I down climbed back to the ground and waited. Then I felt two distinct tugs and the rope stayed taught. Ok, time to climb! It was a joy to climb that route. I couldn’t see the top from the bottom, just as I couldn’t see the bottom from the top. So much ice! And the climbing was easy, even though it was relatively steep. I was having the time of my life. I practice my ice dance, rested, and danced some more. If I could do nothing but climb long, steep ice the rest of my life I would be happy. At one rest as I shook one hand out, then changed to the other, I realized I could do a both hands off the tools shake. It was absolutely awesome – and Jeff, who was on the bridge taking pictures, got me taking my both hands off rest!

Hands off rest! It felt great. Pic O’ the Vic is an amazing climb.
Photo credit: Jeff Witt

As I move closer to the top I saw Gary peaking his head over the edge, checking my progress. I yelled up a big “Hi, this is awesome!” When I reached the top I was sorry it was over but so happy I got to do that route on this trip. Before the day was over I practiced lowering Jeff into the canyon and belaying him up. That was a perfect way to wrap up the day!

The drone photo of me on Pic O’ the Vic. I’m on the left in blue.
Photo credit – Kevin Koprek

We found out as we left the park that the park manager, Kevin, got some photos of me with the drone he flies each day. I was pretty excited to get those photos in addition to the ones Jeff took from the bridge. Plus Jeff posted a photo of me on the San Juan Mountain Guides facebook page. That was a nice surprise when I came across it as I scrolled through my facebook feed.

That night we headed to Montrose for dinner with Diane and Charlie Winger. I was very excited to meet Diane and Charlie “In Real Life.” Diane and I had become good Twitter friends, then facebook friends, over the last year or so. I knew of the Wingers even before that because of their excellent climbing guide “The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9.” They have a great website with quite a few books that they have written together and separately (link). Karen and I met Diane and Charlie at a Thai restaurant in Montrose. We had a great meal and talked up a storm. Charlie and I talked ice climbing practically non-stop, interjected with talking about Chicago since we had both grown up there. But we also talked about the novel Diane had just released on Amazon called “Rockfall,” and Diane and Charlie’s adventures as part of the Highpointers Club (link) which is a group dedicated to bagging the highest point in every stated. Diane has 49 peaks – she says “Just say NO to Denali.” Charlie has all 50, plus all the highest points in every county in Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and Arizona. So, it was a wonderful evening and I feel fortunate that we were able to get together on this trip.

Day 4 – Way too soon it was our last day of climbing. But Karen and I were excited to put our lessons learned on our day with Gary and Jeff to work. We decided to head to South Park, the furthest reach of the park from town. This would give us an opportunity to see the entire park before we left. The hike was a little longer but beautiful.

Karen walks along the trail with South Park in view to the left. Another very busy place!
Photo credit: Terri Barry

When we arrived at South Park there were already a lot of people there. But we found the anchor open for Route 14 “Not Without My Anus” WI3 (yeah, that’s the name… in keeping with the South Park TV series theme). Note, there is also a second set of bolt anchors just a few feet to the north that are not in the book. Karen wanted to set this anchor up on her own so I observed and took photos of the area (and Karen) while she worked.

Karen setting up her very first anchor.
Photo credit: Terri Barry

Once she was finished we headed down to the bottom of the canyon via the rope hand line trail. The canyon was full of people but everyone was sharing ropes so that meant we could all climb lots of climbs without moving anchors. In addition to multiple lines on our rope, we also climbed the unnamed route on the anchor next to our rope, Route 13 “Mr Hanky” WI2, Route 15 “C.H.T” WI2, Route 16 “Super Fun Time” WI4 (it was a super fun time!). The routes were easy enough that we could work on the technique pointers Gary had given us the day before. By mid-afternoon we had climbed a whole bunch and were ready to call it a day. We resisted the urge to climb one more line and hiked back to town. The trip ended on a definite high note!

The sun came out finally for our walk back. Ouray Ice Park is beautiful!
Photo credit: Terri Barry

Walking past Schoolroom on our way out. This is the catwalk with all the bolts on the left. Climbs are to the right.
Photo credit: Terri Barry

The next day we departed Ouray at 5am. The weather was beautiful so we decided to take Hwy 50, The Loneliest Highway in America. After a detour due to a cattle drive in Utah we arrived in Truckee around dinnertime. I dropped Karen off and headed home to Sacramento. I was home before 9 pm. Another 16 hour drive under my belt. I can’t wait to head back to Ouray at least once next year!

Seriously, this was the detour off Hwy 6 in Utah for the cattle drive!
Photo credit: Terri Barry

My full Ouray photo set can be found here.

Lee Vining Canyon Ice Climbing: Even More Lessons Learned and Fun Had

Posted on February 11, 2013 by rockmaven56

My second ice climbing outing of 2013 was a marathon day trip to Lee Vining with a friend of mine from Pipeworks Climbing Gym. Larry has been ice climbing for the better part of 35 years. I knew he was an ice climber and had talked to him about the long trips he makes to New England, Canada, and Colorado several times every winter. He and my friend Lewis climbed Yellow Brick Road WI3+ on Drug Dome when Hwy 120 was open in December 2011, a rare opportunity. In January I overheard Larry talking at the gym about not being able to find local ice climbing partners. I totally stuck my nose in the conversation and told him I would go anytime. Last week he invited me for a day trip to Lee Vining. He started the conversation with: “We would have to leave from Sacramento at 3am but a day trip to Lee Vining is doable. We’ll climb the 2 pitch center line on the Main Wall.” I was definitely game. That meant only the cost of gas and not being gone from my family for more than a day. Yes, I would get up at 2am, no problem. Alpine start – from my house.

I carefully pack my backpack, employing all those clothing and food lessons I learned at Coldstream Canyon. Once again, I put all my climbing and belay clothes in waterproof sacks – that would turn out to be a very important choice. I took equipment inventory three times the night before and placed everything except my backpack in my car. I was to be in bed at 9pm. I ran marathons for 12 years and found that I rarely slept well the night before the 4:00am alarm. This night was very similar. Luckily, I had also employed the “get a good night sleep the night before the night before the marathon.” When the alarm when off at 2:00am I was out of bed with no trouble. Tea and hot water made, I was on the road to Larry’s house by 2:30.

We took little time to transfer my gear. Time was ticking and there were chain controls in the mountains so the drive would take longer than the usual 4 hours. Unfortunately, my hiking poles were deep in the back of my trunk and in my haste I didn’t notice I left them. That was a mistake I would pay for later. Although it was a little slow going where chain controls were in effect, the drive was uneventful and we were at the PGE power station and ready to hike by 8am. It was 22 degrees. There was only one car in the parking lot, a good sign. Larry loaned me one of his hiking poles since I managed to leave mine back in Sacramento. I felt pretty stupid about it but was not too proud to take a pole!

The PGE Powerhouse at the trailhead.

We elected not to wear snowshoes and also not to put our crampons on even though there were clear crampon tracks from the party ahead of us. The snow was very firm and frozen, the footing was treacherous. I should have stopped to put my crampons on but I figured it would get better – it didn’t. We had to cross a stream and both the snow and the rocks were icy and slippery. Larry deftly crossed, much more experienced in ice climb approaches than me. Not only should I have had my crampons on, I needed two hiking pole and I only had one. I lost my balance and my heavy backpack caused me to fall backwards into the stream. My right leg and arm were immersed. I felt a little bit of water go down my pants under my backpack, the bottom of which was clearly under water. Worst yet, I couldn’t get up. I was like a turtle on its back. Larry rushed back and helped me up. Time to assess the damage… Interestingly, I didn’t seem to be that wet. Of course, my jacket and glove instantly froze but my hands and feet weren’t numb. So, we decided to hike on. I can be a trooper and Larry got to see that part in action. We could turn around if I needed to. I didn’t feel so stupid after Larry told me about all the ice climbing stream spills he and his partners have taken over the years.

Early in the hike. Beautiful scenery!

Highway 120 covered with new snowfall as viewed from Lee Vining Canyon.

We pressed on to the climbing area. As we gained elevation the snow field got steeper and the snow even more firm. I had trouble with the footing and endeavored not to look back at how far I would slide if I slipped. In fact, slipping was not an option. I kicked little stairs into the snow. It was taking way to long. Larry went ahead, dropped his pack off and came back for mine. Traveling without the backpack was easier but the footing was no more secure. I had taken my frozen glove off for a moment and then couldn’t get it back on. That was great. I slipped my hand into it as far as I could and hiked on. I was very happy to be at the base of the climb and decided that my crampons would be on for the hike out.

Lee Vining Canyon finally in view. The snow field is much steeper than it appears here.

I quickly changed my clothes. It was very fortunate that I had used the waterproof bags because the inside of my pack was very wet. On my harness my PAS was frozen into a bizarre sculpture and my crampon bag had a solid block of ice frozen over the top. I had to blow warm air on the zipper to get my crampons out. And, yes, my butt was wet… but I still seemed to be warm enough so time to climb. I looked up at the Main Wall, and took a big gulp. Don’t panic, don’t panic. It was huge. Just about a full 70m to the top. Larry would lead it in one 70 m pitch. I would follow. He would lower me, I’d tie the second 70m rope to the first and he would haul it up. Then he would rappel off. I can do this, I can do this, I can do this…

Larry testing out the ice at the base of the Main Wall. Looking up was daunting for me…

Larry climbed with precision. He took his time. He only place 7 ice screws in 70m. It was very impressive. I didn’t take any photos while he led, better to focus on the belay. Although later he remarked it would have been fun to have a few photos. Next time! He called that I was on belay. Ok, here we go. I started to climb. I felt solid. The climb is WI4 but there were good rest spots. The climb required some route finding but that made it interesting. I had little trouble finding tool or foot placements. I realized that I was having a great time and doing a pretty good job! I remembered all the techniques I had learned. I forced myself to rest and shake out, 70 m later I was at the top. That was the longest continuous ice climb I have ever done! Larry said he was impressed at how fast he had to take the rope in. It turned out that the guide I took my ice climbing class from, Ian, was in the canyon with clients. They were in a position to watch us climb. When I finished the climb one of the clients remarked that I rocked it. That definitely made my day. I told him that I had learned from the best and he should pay attention to what Ian told him!

The bridge of my nose took home a souvenir of the day.

Larry rappelling. Two other parties on the Main Wall.

Larry rappelled down as a light snowfall began. It was beautiful. We thought about doing a lap on top rope but it was getting late. Between the hike out and drive home it would be 10pm before I was home. So, I pulled the ropes, we packed up and headed to the car. I left my crampons on and used both poles to cross the creek.

Gorgeous view on the way out too. I love the Eastside.

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Aspens asleep for the winter.

A great end to another landmark day for me. Sometimes I can’t believe I have the opportunity to do these amazing things. I would have never guessed even a few years ago any of this would happen. I am so grateful to have the company of all my wonderful climbing partners. More lessons learned and fun had!

Ice Climbing at Coldstream Canyon: Lessons Learned and Fun Had

Posted on February 4, 2013 by rockmaven56

I had the pleasure of attending the 2013 American Alpine Club (AAC) Sierra Nevada Section (SNS) outing to Coldstream Canyon for ice climbing the weekend of January 25. This has been an annual AAC trip for some time but this was the first time for me to attend. I was apprehensive about attending without a partner for several reasons: I’m relatively new to ice climbing, I had only snow-shoed once and that was in a 5k race, I hadn’t met many of the attendees and didn’t know anyone well except for Karen, who is the current Section Chair. But my friend, Lewis (past Section Chair!), said I should give it a go and I’m really glad I took his advice. Karen is fond of pointing out that “it takes a village” to get things done and this outing was a perfect example of that adage. Like other AAC outings I have attended, it was a remarkable group of people.

The climbing area in Coldstream Canyon is 6+ miles from the parking area. The adventure to the climbs begins with the snowshoe hike (or skiing) to the Lost Trail Lodge, 4 miles from the parking area. Lost Trail Lodge is off the grid and snowbound during the winter. A beautiful place to forget the stuff that isn’t really important. At the lodge about 32 people eventually assembled for the weekend. But first many of us met at 1 pm on Friday at the parking area to help with the task of loading the group supplies for the weekend onto the snowmobile sled. This was followed a few miles down the trail later with helping transport the loads across the double railroad tracks to the snowcat that would take the supplies to the lodge.

My fellow climbers ahead on the hike to Lost Trail Lodge, several hauling sleds of equipment.

Listening for trains and moving supplies

It was fun to help with the process of supporting our outing. We were responsible for transporting all of our own personal and climbing gear on foot but, thankfully, the food and drink were on the snowcat.

Lost Trail Lodge

That night we had a pizza and salad dinner prepared by Karen and others from the group. Karen kept us all well fed that night and the next two mornings. I woke at 5:30 Saturday morning to the smell of coffee, pancakes and bacon. I tried to do my part by doing dishes. Feeding that many of us looked to be a daunting task and I am grateful and amazed at how seamlessly Karen pulled it off.

I planned to leave with the early Saturday morning to help with the group climbing equipment transport. I brought my 70m rope which was needed for the longer climbs and I didn’t want anyone else burdened with the task of carrying it along with the other group climbing equipment. We headed out at 7am for the 2.5 mi hike to the climbs, and I was barely able to keep up with Ridell who was on snowshoes hauling a heavy sled full of climbing gear! My job was to keep the sled from falling into the stream at crossings.

My first view of the Coldstream Canyon Cliffs and climbs. Notice the grey weather.

I found out when we reached the climbing area that I knew next to nothing about how to manage clothing when the hike to the ice climbs is strenuous. The places I had been last year were nothing like this place. The approaches to those places were either downhill or easy. The hike to the Coldstream Canyon climbs includes a 1000ft elevation gain. When I took off my goretex shell I found my synthetic nano puff jacket was soaking wet. I could have wrung sweat out of it! Not a good start to the day that was overcast, damp, and breezy. I dug out of my pack my remaining layers, dressed up and hoped for the best. I would spend the rest of the day working to stay warm with my feet and hands alternating who was more frozen. Luckily, I took notes from Kristen about dressing very light for the hike and having a full set of dry clothing in my pack for a waist up change upon arrival. The ideal being literally to strip to the athletic bra, towel off and get dry clothes on. I would implement that plan the next day. That would do me no good on Saturday however…

In addition to my clothing fail, I discovered I forgot my thermal cup at the lodge and I couldn’t find my tea. So, I resorted, for the first time in my life, to drinking hot water. In graduate school, fellow students from China frequently drank hot water. I always thought I wouldn’t like it but it was satisfying in the cold. The next mistake I discovered was not bringing enough food. Geesh, how many mistakes could I make in one day? I carefully rationed what I had brought with me, and I’m sure that contributed to the argument between my hands and feet over who was the most frozen. One thing that did help everyone was the tent that Ellen brought to shelter us from the wind. First you dig a pit with a “table” in the middle, then set up the tent. It was somewhat warm in the tent, thankfully!

Our tent kindly provided by Ellen

But, now, back to ice climbing. Upon arrival the group of climbers who planned to set up top ropes sprang into action. The temperatures were warm for ice climbing so the ice was not in the best condition. We ended up with only two top ropes and probably 20 or so climbers. I was so appreciative of the guys that set up the top ropes. It was not an easy task and none of us could have climbed without their dedication to the group. It was a hazardous job. One climb at the anchors had a lot of running water underneath the ice that got several of guys setting up the climb pretty wet. Fred was assisting the setup at the bottom of the same climb. Suddenly, he fell into a hole and all we could see was the top of his helmet. Then just as suddenly, he had his legs out of the hole and was belly flopping right back onto the snow. Although I know it was not easy to get out of the hole, Fred’s experience in snow really showed at that moment. Lesson learned: snow at the base of climbs can be unstable, know how to get yourself out!

First climb. Pretty soft ice in warm and damp conditions.

I have to admit, on Saturday I pondered why I wanted to ice climb. The conditions are harsh and unforgiving, the physical demands are very high, and mistakes can be paid for dearly. But with my brand new BD Cobras in hand, I finally got on a climb at about 2:30pm. But by then the ice was soft and slushy. I had climbed soft ice before but this ice sunk downward under my crampons. And big pieces of ice were detaching under my tools. I had a very solid belay from Rand but it wasn’t enough to make up for my fear of just how much ice might come off as I climbed. After 30 ft I called for a take and came down. Other people climbed after me and made it past where I was but I just didn’t have the skill and experience to deal with the ice conditions. However, I love my tools, as I knew I would!

The hike back to the lodge was a bit of a slog, even though it was downhill. I think the quick pace on the way out that morning set up my day to be difficult. I spent the entire 2.5 miles back thinking about clothing management, how I wanted a pair of down pants, and whether I would be able to handle the next day hiking out to the climb, climbing and then hiking to the car to go home. That would be a total of 9 miles of hiking and several ice climbing routes. I considered staying at the lodge while Fred (my carpool buddy) climbed.

That night we had a dinner catered by a Nepalese couple from Reno. The food was out of this world. I started to feel recharged after a good meal and great conversation. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, and great classes and trips we had taken, After dinner I decided to pack my bag for the next day. I used everything I learned from my missteps the day before. I had my stove again but this time I also had my thermal cup and tea! And plenty of food I would force myself to eat. As Kristen advised me, everything I planned to wear from the waist up to climb in, including an extra hat, was put in a waterproof bag. I decided my pants would just have to be a little damp, they had dried pretty fast the day before and I didn’t want to deal with taking off my gaiters and boots. I would endeavor to start my snowshoe hike just a little cold. So I laid out my light weight long sleeve shirt for the hike. I was in bed by 9pm. I missed most of the bluegrass band performance held in the grand room downstairs but I was just too tired to stay up!

My alarm went off at 5:40am and by 6:00 I was down in the kitchen where, once again, Karen had hot coffee and breakfast going. A smaller group of climbers was heading out early to set up top ropes. And they were taking my 70 m rope with them so I didn’t have to carry it this time! I planned to go out with the next group just a little later. After hearty breakfast of French toast & sausage I was ready to head out. Karen, bless her heart, encouraged me to go when I was ready rather than waiting for the next party. It had snowed the night before so following the tracks from the first party would be pretty straightforward. And the trail was marked with flags. So, I took my first solo winter hike! Thank you Karen! It was beautiful and inspiring. The temperature was colder than the previous day but there was no wind. I traveled at my own pace, which turned out to be still a pretty good clip. I took photos along the way and arrived ready to climb.

New snow on the hike

Same place, next day. What a difference a day makes!

The first task when I arrived was to get all those dry clothes on. I was amazed at the difference it made compared to the day before. I was instantly comfortable and my hands and feet didn’t go numb at all Sunday even though it was quite a bit colder than Saturday. My first climb was on the same line I attempted Saturday. This time the ice conditions were much better and I climbed it with very little trouble. I remembered why I love to ice climb! Ridell and crew were setting up an awesome but intimidating climb off to the left of the main area.

Ridell ready to rappel down from the top of the cliff.

I then watched Ridell float up this climb, traveling to the right on the top third of the route. I watched several other climbers on the route too.

Ridell on the climb

I made a cup of tea, had a snack and decided that I would give that climb a go. I mean, I’d be on top rope so I needed to at least try it! It was very steep, depending on the season it is rated WI4+/WI5. The consensus this season was that it was on the more difficult side. But before I talk about the climb I will digress into a side story about Ridell pointed out to me that the buckles of the crampons and gaiters should be on the outside to avoid kicking the buckles while climbing. Then I check and saw I had both the gaiters and the crampons the wrong sides! Yes, I climbed the first route of the day with my crampons on the wrong feet. I can still be quite the newbie sometimes… So, finally, with gaiters and crampons properly place, I tied in and looked up at the 150ft+ practically dead vertical climb thinking, “Well, this is it!” Somehow I got into a rhythm as I climbed. I also responded to the “stem your feet!” reminder yelled from below. The ice was better than I expected and there were sections of chandelier ice to hang the tools securely rather than swing into the ice so I was able to rest on the go. I confess I love chandelier ice. Suddenly I was at my potential stopping point about two thirds of the way up. The anchor placement was set in a way that traveling to the right was off anchor. I weighed my options. I was too apprehensive of a pendulum single with sharp things in my hands and on my feet to continue. The ice on the left, straight under the anchor, looked really difficult. I probably should have tried to left but that will have to wait for next year! I am so happy with the climbing on this route that I did do that “what-if’s” don’t matter.

Me getting started on the steep stuff.

That’s me! About 10 ft below where I stopped.

Climbing for the day was done, time to hike to the lodge then out to the car. Fred and I set a good pace to the Lodge.

Me still smiling on the hike to the lodge. The Coldstream Canyon climbs are visible behind me.

There we had a cup of hot coffee made by Joachim and a quick snack. Backpacks packed we headed out around 2:30 pm. The railroad tracks are the one real hazard on the hike to and from the lodge. We listened carefully as we prepared to cross. But it was more feeling than hearing a downhill freight train coming. Sure enough, suddenly, there it was. Once it was past we listened for an uphill train, didn’t hear one and crossed. But not 2 minutes later, after we crossed, there was an uphill freight train! Fred said he had never seen two trains so close.

Here comes the freight train. Glad we waited!

We made it to the car just before 6 pm and never needed our headlamps. I was home by 8:30 pm. Ending a great weekend full of new skills learned and with a wonderful group.

rockmaven56

The mountains are calling

Category Archives: Ice Climbing

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