I had the pleasure of attending the 2013 American Alpine Club (AAC) Sierra Nevada Section (SNS) outing to Coldstream Canyon for ice climbing the weekend of January 25. This has been an annual AAC trip for some time but this was the first time for me to attend. I was apprehensive about attending without a partner for several reasons: I’m relatively new to ice climbing, I had only snow-shoed once and that was in a 5k race, I hadn’t met many of the attendees and didn’t know anyone well except for Karen, who is the current Section Chair. But my friend, Lewis (past Section Chair!), said I should give it a go and I’m really glad I took his advice. Karen is fond of pointing out that “it takes a village” to get things done and this outing was a perfect example of that adage. Like other AAC outings I have attended, it was a remarkable group of people.

The climbing area in Coldstream Canyon is 6+ miles from the parking area. The adventure to the climbs begins with the snowshoe hike (or skiing) to the Lost Trail Lodge, 4 miles from the parking area. Lost Trail Lodge is off the grid and snowbound during the winter. A beautiful place to forget the stuff that isn’t really important. At the lodge about 32 people eventually assembled for the weekend. But first many of us met at 1 pm on Friday at the parking area to help with the task of loading the group supplies for the weekend onto the snowmobile sled. This was followed a few miles down the trail later with helping transport the loads across the double railroad tracks to the snowcat that would take the supplies to the lodge.

My fellow climbers ahead on the hike to Lost Trail Lodge, several hauling sleds of equipment.

Listening for trains and moving supplies

It was fun to help with the process of supporting our outing. We were responsible for transporting all of our own personal and climbing gear on foot but, thankfully, the food and drink were on the snowcat.

Lost Trail Lodge

That night we had a pizza and salad dinner prepared by Karen and others from the group. Karen kept us all well fed that night and the next two mornings. I woke at 5:30 Saturday morning to the smell of coffee, pancakes and bacon. I tried to do my part by doing dishes. Feeding that many of us looked to be a daunting task and I am grateful and amazed at how seamlessly Karen pulled it off.

I planned to leave with the early Saturday morning to help with the group climbing equipment transport. I brought my 70m rope which was needed for the longer climbs and I didn’t want anyone else burdened with the task of carrying it along with the other group climbing equipment. We headed out at 7am for the 2.5 mi hike to the climbs, and I was barely able to keep up with Ridell who was on snowshoes hauling a heavy sled full of climbing gear! My job was to keep the sled from falling into the stream at crossings.

My first view of the Coldstream Canyon Cliffs and climbs. Notice the grey weather.

I found out when we reached the climbing area that I knew next to nothing about how to manage clothing when the hike to the ice climbs is strenuous. The places I had been last year were nothing like this place. The approaches to those places were either downhill or easy. The hike to the Coldstream Canyon climbs includes a 1000ft elevation gain. When I took off my goretex shell I found my synthetic nano puff jacket was soaking wet. I could have wrung sweat out of it! Not a good start to the day that was overcast, damp, and breezy. I dug out of my pack my remaining layers, dressed up and hoped for the best. I would spend the rest of the day working to stay warm with my feet and hands alternating who was more frozen. Luckily, I took notes from Kristen about dressing very light for the hike and having a full set of dry clothing in my pack for a waist up change upon arrival. The ideal being literally to strip to the athletic bra, towel off and get dry clothes on. I would implement that plan the next day. That would do me no good on Saturday however…

In addition to my clothing fail, I discovered I forgot my thermal cup at the lodge and I couldn’t find my tea. So, I resorted, for the first time in my life, to drinking hot water. In graduate school, fellow students from China frequently drank hot water. I always thought I wouldn’t like it but it was satisfying in the cold. The next mistake I discovered was not bringing enough food. Geesh, how many mistakes could I make in one day? I carefully rationed what I had brought with me, and I’m sure that contributed to the argument between my hands and feet over who was the most frozen. One thing that did help everyone was the tent that Ellen brought to shelter us from the wind. First you dig a pit with a “table” in the middle, then set up the tent. It was somewhat warm in the tent, thankfully!

Our tent kindly provided by Ellen

But, now, back to ice climbing. Upon arrival the group of climbers who planned to set up top ropes sprang into action. The temperatures were warm for ice climbing so the ice was not in the best condition. We ended up with only two top ropes and probably 20 or so climbers. I was so appreciative of the guys that set up the top ropes. It was not an easy task and none of us could have climbed without their dedication to the group. It was a hazardous job. One climb at the anchors had a lot of running water underneath the ice that got several of guys setting up the climb pretty wet. Fred was assisting the setup at the bottom of the same climb. Suddenly, he fell into a hole and all we could see was the top of his helmet. Then just as suddenly, he had his legs out of the hole and was belly flopping right back onto the snow. Although I know it was not easy to get out of the hole, Fred’s experience in snow really showed at that moment. Lesson learned: snow at the base of climbs can be unstable, know how to get yourself out!

First climb. Pretty soft ice in warm and damp conditions.

I have to admit, on Saturday I pondered why I wanted to ice climb. The conditions are harsh and unforgiving, the physical demands are very high, and mistakes can be paid for dearly. But with my brand new BD Cobras in hand, I finally got on a climb at about 2:30pm. But by then the ice was soft and slushy. I had climbed soft ice before but this ice sunk downward under my crampons. And big pieces of ice were detaching under my tools. I had a very solid belay from Rand but it wasn’t enough to make up for my fear of just how much ice might come off as I climbed. After 30 ft I called for a take and came down. Other people climbed after me and made it past where I was but I just didn’t have the skill and experience to deal with the ice conditions. However, I love my tools, as I knew I would!

The hike back to the lodge was a bit of a slog, even though it was downhill. I think the quick pace on the way out that morning set up my day to be difficult. I spent the entire 2.5 miles back thinking about clothing management, how I wanted a pair of down pants, and whether I would be able to handle the next day hiking out to the climb, climbing and then hiking to the car to go home. That would be a total of 9 miles of hiking and several ice climbing routes. I considered staying at the lodge while Fred (my carpool buddy) climbed.

That night we had a dinner catered by a Nepalese couple from Reno. The food was out of this world. I started to feel recharged after a good meal and great conversation. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, and great classes and trips we had taken, After dinner I decided to pack my bag for the next day. I used everything I learned from my missteps the day before. I had my stove again but this time I also had my thermal cup and tea! And plenty of food I would force myself to eat. As Kristen advised me, everything I planned to wear from the waist up to climb in, including an extra hat, was put in a waterproof bag. I decided my pants would just have to be a little damp, they had dried pretty fast the day before and I didn’t want to deal with taking off my gaiters and boots. I would endeavor to start my snowshoe hike just a little cold. So I laid out my light weight long sleeve shirt for the hike. I was in bed by 9pm. I missed most of the bluegrass band performance held in the grand room downstairs but I was just too tired to stay up!

My alarm went off at 5:40am and by 6:00 I was down in the kitchen where, once again, Karen had hot coffee and breakfast going. A smaller group of climbers was heading out early to set up top ropes. And they were taking my 70 m rope with them so I didn’t have to carry it this time! I planned to go out with the next group just a little later. After hearty breakfast of French toast & sausage I was ready to head out. Karen, bless her heart, encouraged me to go when I was ready rather than waiting for the next party. It had snowed the night before so following the tracks from the first party would be pretty straightforward. And the trail was marked with flags. So, I took my first solo winter hike! Thank you Karen! It was beautiful and inspiring. The temperature was colder than the previous day but there was no wind. I traveled at my own pace, which turned out to be still a pretty good clip. I took photos along the way and arrived ready to climb.

New snow on the hike

Same place, next day. What a difference a day makes!

The first task when I arrived was to get all those dry clothes on. I was amazed at the difference it made compared to the day before. I was instantly comfortable and my hands and feet didn’t go numb at all Sunday even though it was quite a bit colder than Saturday. My first climb was on the same line I attempted Saturday. This time the ice conditions were much better and I climbed it with very little trouble. I remembered why I love to ice climb! Ridell and crew were setting up an awesome but intimidating climb off to the left of the main area.

Ridell ready to rappel down from the top of the cliff.

I then watched Ridell float up this climb, traveling to the right on the top third of the route. I watched several other climbers on the route too.

Ridell on the climb

I made a cup of tea, had a snack and decided that I would give that climb a go. I mean, I’d be on top rope so I needed to at least try it! It was very steep, depending on the season it is rated WI4+/WI5. The consensus this season was that it was on the more difficult side. But before I talk about the climb I will digress into a side story about Ridell pointed out  to me that the buckles of the crampons and gaiters should be on the outside to avoid kicking the buckles while climbing. Then I check and saw I had both the gaiters and the crampons the wrong sides! Yes, I climbed the first route of the day with my crampons on the wrong feet. I can still be quite the newbie sometimes… So, finally, with gaiters and crampons properly place, I tied in and looked up at the 150ft+ practically dead vertical climb thinking, “Well, this is it!” Somehow I got into a rhythm as I climbed. I also responded to the “stem your feet!” reminder yelled from below. The ice was better than I expected and there were sections of chandelier ice to hang the tools securely rather than swing into the ice so I was able to rest on the go. I confess I love chandelier ice. Suddenly I was at my potential stopping point about two thirds of the way up. The anchor placement was set in a way that traveling to the right was off anchor. I weighed my options. I was too apprehensive of a pendulum single with sharp things in my hands and on my feet to continue. The ice on the left, straight under the anchor, looked really difficult. I probably should have tried to left but that will have to wait for next year! I am so happy with the climbing on this route that I did do that “what-if’s” don’t matter.

Me getting started on the steep stuff.

That’s me! About 10 ft below where I stopped.

Climbing for the day was done, time to hike to the lodge then out to the car. Fred and I set a good pace to the Lodge.

Me still smiling on the hike to the lodge. The Coldstream Canyon climbs are visible behind me.

There we had a cup of hot coffee made by Joachim and a quick snack. Backpacks packed we headed out around 2:30 pm. The railroad tracks are the one real hazard on the hike to and from the lodge. We listened carefully as we prepared to cross. But it was more feeling than hearing a downhill freight train coming. Sure enough, suddenly, there it was. Once it was past we listened for an uphill train, didn’t hear one and crossed. But not 2 minutes later, after we crossed, there was an uphill freight train! Fred said he had never seen two trains so close.

Here comes the freight train. Glad we waited!

We made it to the car just before 6 pm and never needed our headlamps. I was home by 8:30 pm. Ending a great weekend full of new skills learned and with a wonderful group.