Lassen National Park has been part of my family’s life since the early 1990’s. We starting taking our daughters camping there when they were young and now our grandson. Everyone in the family has climbed Lassen Peak multiple times. We just keep going back because it is such a beautiful place and offered more opportunities for solitude than some of the other national parks near our home. We have been all over the park, hiking on many of the trails – but only during the regular season. I had always wanted to snowshoe and camp in Lassen during the winter. Finally, last year, at the age of 59 I got my chance.

Lassen Peak hike. Mid-1990’s.

I should acknowledge at the outset that winter is my favorite season. Growing up in Chicago I always looked forward to snowstorms and ice-skating. I had done some winter camping when I was in college and had done quite a bit of cross-country skiing. In addition, I am an Ice Climber and Snowboarder. So, the winter clothing routine was something I am familiar with – how to stay warm without getting too wet from sweating. I was rusty on the winter camping routine but I was heading out with a more recently experienced friend. To say I was excited is an understatement!

Snowing on the way in to Lassen National Park. February 2016.

The timeline of the trip was delayed a day due to a snowstorm that rolled in the Friday we planned to start our trip. It was snowing hard when we arrived at the visitor center. We elected to camp at the visitor center instead, and leave Saturday morning so we wouldn’t start out the trip soaking wet from the falling snow. We spent a nice day hanging out with the rangers and visiting the displays in the visitor center. We camped in the area near the visitor center that night. There is a small fee to camp near the parking lot. The vestibule of the visitor center is open 24 hrs, providing running water and bathrooms. Quite the amenities!

Lassen National Park. Looking out the window of the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center. February 2016.

Saturday morning dawned clear and cold to Lassen Park covered with the cleanest, most beautiful snow imaginable. After a nice cup of coffee and warm breakfast we filled out the wilderness permit and snowshoed away from the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center.

My home away from home.   Christmas present from my husband. Sunrise at the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center. Lassen National Park. February 2016.

Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center in Lassen National Park. February 2016. Just a little bit of snow!

Our destination to camp was the Bumpass Hell Parking Lot area because it’s a nice flat area with a great view. The hike is about 5 to 6 miles one-way with approximately 2000 ft of elevation gain, depending on the route chosen. Travel during the winter into the backcountry anywhere requires avalanche hazard awareness. Lassen National Park in no exception.We all had avalanche safety gear, including beacons, shovels, and probes. I also had my InReach Explorer that tracks travel that can be followed via the internet and also allows two-way communication without cell service.

In addition to the usual winter safety awareness, Lassen is a geothermal area. When traveling in the Lassen backcountry, especially in winter when snow can cover geothermal areas, it is necessary to be aware of the location of those geothermal areas. The Lassen National Park website has a map of the avalanche and geothermal hazards in the southwest section of the park. Anyone venturing into the backcountry in winter should be well aquatinted with the information on that map. The visitor center sells laminated copies that are waterproof. We had several copies with us.

When snow is deep in Lassen travel to the Bumpass Hell area is via the Ranger Cutoff to avoid avalanche danger near Diamond Peak. The Ranger Cutoff shortens the hike in miles but it is more difficult than taking the road due to the steep elevation gain around the back side of Diamond Peak.

Snowshoeing along SR89 Lassen National Park. Steam from the Sulfur Works is visible dead center of this photo. February 2016.

The day was absolutely gorgeous. The Sulfur Works area was in full steamy and bubbly swing as we headed up the first significant elevation gain approaching the Ranger Cutoff. This part of the hike follows SR89 until it rounds the corner at Windy Point. Then the route heads up the shoulder of Diamond Peak. I don’t have any photos of the actual Ranger’s Cutoff because I was too busy working my butt off in the soft, knee-deep powder to get to the ridge top! The slope of the climb on the Ranger Cutoff varies between 15% – 30%, at times we were literally using steps in the snow. It was very hard work. However, the view as we passed the backside of Diamond Peak was absolutely amazing.

Lassen Peak visible from the backside of Diamond Peak. February 2016.

We descended the Practice Hill area where we met some backcountry skiers. We saw a lot of skiers and several snowshoers during the day. The backcountry of Lassen is a popular destination. We continued to slog through the knee-deep powder in a winter wonderland. As we descended the backside of Diamond Peak we found SR 89 again and followed until the switchbacks in the road heading up to the Emerald Sidehill area. We took a shortcut evident in the snow left by skiers that skipped some of the road and ended up at the entrance to the Emerald Sidehill area. I am familiar with this area of Lassen and wondered what it would look like covered in snow. It was impressive. The road was not visible at all anymore, being covered by deep snow. The slope of the snow over the road in this area is steep. We sized up the snow condition and the track left by skiers earlier in the day. We then spread out, crossing one at a time, staying away from the edge as we traveled across the area. I was a little nervous but the snow was stable and we all got across without incident.

Snowshoeing across the Emerald Sidehill area of SR89. Lassen National Park. February 2016.

The rest of the hike was easy. Relatively flat and open. We quickly located the Bumpass Hell parking lot and found the flattest area for our tents. Next it was time to dig the tent platform and entry step. Then the tents were all set up. Ready for dinner! But first, the ever-present necessity of melting snow. I brought my Sumo Jetboil pot so the snow melting went pretty quickly and we had enough water for both drinking and to make dinner. I also made a hot water bottle in an extra wool sock for my sleeping bag, something I learned from my climbing buddy when climbing Mt Whitney.

The sunset was amazing. Then, of course, the temperature dropped and we got into sleeping bags since the number one mission during winter camping seems to be staying warm. The temperature overnight dropped into the upper teens. However, I was surprisingly cozy even with my 15 deg sleeping bag but I did use a silk liner. And I had an inflatable pillow – a must for winter camping!

Sunset at Bumpass Hell parking lot. Looking southwest. Lassen National Park. February 2016.

Lassen Peak bathed in golden sunset light. February 2016.

Amazing lighting looking towards Bumpass Hell. Lassen National Park. February 2016.

Sunday morning was glorious. The view of Lassen Peak from the Bumpass Hell parking lot area is amazing. We had hoped to summit Lassen Peak but losing Friday to the storm meant that we needed to pack up and head back to the visitor center. We lounged around the area for the morning – in our shirtsleeves by noon. Then we packed up camp and headed back.

Campsite with a view of Lassen Peak. Bumpass Hell parking lot. Lassen National Park. February 2016

Lassen National Park. Emerald Sidehill on SR89, looking back east on our way back. Such a lovey day! February 2016.

The hike back felt leisurely since it was mostly downhill and the weather was so pleasant. We arrived back at the cars late in the afternoon and headed home. My first winter backcounty camping trip since college as a success!

We repeated the trip one more time in May 2016 hoping to summit Lassen Peak. Unfortunately, we were hit with an unseasonable snowstorm. We were able to follow the road in May making the hike quick and navigation not really necessary. However, to say the weather was inclement is an under statement.  Once again I was denied a summit of Lassen Peak in the snow. The photos below show that on the return trip we got our practice dealing with winter storm conditions! I am looking forward to returning to Lassen this winter fo more winter camping adventures and maybe a winter summit of Lassen Peak.

Bumpass Hell parking lot. Not such great weather conditions! May 2016.