My second ice climbing outing of 2013 was a marathon day trip to Lee Vining with a friend of mine from Pipeworks Climbing Gym. Larry has been ice climbing for the better part of 35 years. I knew he was an ice climber and had talked to him about the long trips he makes to New England, Canada, and Colorado several times every winter. He and my friend Lewis climbed Yellow Brick Road WI3+ on Drug Dome when Hwy 120 was open in December 2011, a rare opportunity. In January I overheard Larry talking at the gym about not being able to find local ice climbing partners. I totally stuck my nose in the conversation and told him I would go anytime. Last week he invited me for a day trip to Lee Vining. He started the conversation with: “We would have to leave from Sacramento at 3am but a day trip to Lee Vining is doable. We’ll climb the 2 pitch center line on the Main Wall.” I was definitely game. That meant only the cost of gas and not being gone from my family for more than a day. Yes, I would get up at 2am, no problem. Alpine start – from my house.
I carefully pack my backpack, employing all those clothing and food lessons I learned at Coldstream Canyon. Once again, I put all my climbing and belay clothes in waterproof sacks – that would turn out to be a very important choice. I took equipment inventory three times the night before and placed everything except my backpack in my car. I was to be in bed at 9pm. I ran marathons for 12 years and found that I rarely slept well the night before the 4:00am alarm. This night was very similar. Luckily, I had also employed the “get a good night sleep the night before the night before the marathon.” When the alarm when off at 2:00am I was out of bed with no trouble. Tea and hot water made, I was on the road to Larry’s house by 2:30.
We took little time to transfer my gear. Time was ticking and there were chain controls in the mountains so the drive would take longer than the usual 4 hours. Unfortunately, my hiking poles were deep in the back of my trunk and in my haste I didn’t notice I left them. That was a mistake I would pay for later. Although it was a little slow going where chain controls were in effect, the drive was uneventful and we were at the PGE power station and ready to hike by 8am. It was 22 degrees. There was only one car in the parking lot, a good sign. Larry loaned me one of his hiking poles since I managed to leave mine back in Sacramento. I felt pretty stupid about it but was not too proud to take a pole!
The PGE Powerhouse at the trailhead.
We elected not to wear snowshoes and also not to put our crampons on even though there were clear crampon tracks from the party ahead of us. The snow was very firm and frozen, the footing was treacherous. I should have stopped to put my crampons on but I figured it would get better – it didn’t. We had to cross a stream and both the snow and the rocks were icy and slippery. Larry deftly crossed, much more experienced in ice climb approaches than me. Not only should I have had my crampons on, I needed two hiking pole and I only had one. I lost my balance and my heavy backpack caused me to fall backwards into the stream. My right leg and arm were immersed. I felt a little bit of water go down my pants under my backpack, the bottom of which was clearly under water. Worst yet, I couldn’t get up. I was like a turtle on its back. Larry rushed back and helped me up. Time to assess the damage… Interestingly, I didn’t seem to be that wet. Of course, my jacket and glove instantly froze but my hands and feet weren’t numb. So, we decided to hike on. I can be a trooper and Larry got to see that part in action. We could turn around if I needed to. I didn’t feel so stupid after Larry told me about all the ice climbing stream spills he and his partners have taken over the years.
Early in the hike. Beautiful scenery!
Highway 120 covered with new snowfall as viewed from Lee Vining Canyon.
We pressed on to the climbing area. As we gained elevation the snow field got steeper and the snow even more firm. I had trouble with the footing and endeavored not to look back at how far I would slide if I slipped. In fact, slipping was not an option. I kicked little stairs into the snow. It was taking way to long. Larry went ahead, dropped his pack off and came back for mine. Traveling without the backpack was easier but the footing was no more secure. I had taken my frozen glove off for a moment and then couldn’t get it back on. That was great. I slipped my hand into it as far as I could and hiked on. I was very happy to be at the base of the climb and decided that my crampons would be on for the hike out.
Lee Vining Canyon finally in view. The snow field is much steeper than it appears here.
I quickly changed my clothes. It was very fortunate that I had used the waterproof bags because the inside of my pack was very wet. On my harness my PAS was frozen into a bizarre sculpture and my crampon bag had a solid block of ice frozen over the top. I had to blow warm air on the zipper to get my crampons out. And, yes, my butt was wet… but I still seemed to be warm enough so time to climb. I looked up at the Main Wall, and took a big gulp. Don’t panic, don’t panic. It was huge. Just about a full 70m to the top. Larry would lead it in one 70 m pitch. I would follow. He would lower me, I’d tie the second 70m rope to the first and he would haul it up. Then he would rappel off. I can do this, I can do this, I can do this…
Larry testing out the ice at the base of the Main Wall. Looking up was daunting for me…
Larry climbed with precision. He took his time. He only place 7 ice screws in 70m. It was very impressive. I didn’t take any photos while he led, better to focus on the belay. Although later he remarked it would have been fun to have a few photos. Next time! He called that I was on belay. Ok, here we go. I started to climb. I felt solid. The climb is WI4 but there were good rest spots. The climb required some route finding but that made it interesting. I had little trouble finding tool or foot placements. I realized that I was having a great time and doing a pretty good job! I remembered all the techniques I had learned. I forced myself to rest and shake out, 70 m later I was at the top. That was the longest continuous ice climb I have ever done! Larry said he was impressed at how fast he had to take the rope in. It turned out that the guide I took my ice climbing class from, Ian, was in the canyon with clients. They were in a position to watch us climb. When I finished the climb one of the clients remarked that I rocked it. That definitely made my day. I told him that I had learned from the best and he should pay attention to what Ian told him!
The bridge of my nose took home a souvenir of the day.
Larry rappelling. Two other parties on the Main Wall.
Larry rappelled down as a light snowfall began. It was beautiful. We thought about doing a lap on top rope but it was getting late. Between the hike out and drive home it would be 10pm before I was home. So, I pulled the ropes, we packed up and headed to the car. I left my crampons on and used both poles to cross the creek.
Gorgeous view on the way out too. I love the Eastside.
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Aspens asleep for the winter.
A great end to another landmark day for me. Sometimes I can’t believe I have the opportunity to do these amazing things. I would have never guessed even a few years ago any of this would happen. I am so grateful to have the company of all my wonderful climbing partners. More lessons learned and fun had!
rockmaven56 