#JTreeTweetUp 5!

Posted on January 20, 2014 by rockmaven56

The view south from Hidden Valley Campground. Joshua Tree National Park.
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

I love Joshua Tree National Park (JTree). I have lived in California since 1974 and have been all over the state, but I had never been to JTree until 2009, shortly after I started rock climbing outdoors in ernest. I have visited JTree many times since that first trip in January 2009.

My second climb ever in Joshua Tree, 2009. Learning the fine are of friction climbing.

My second climb ever in Joshua Tree, 2009. Learning the fine art of friction climbing. Photo credit: Emily Barry

This last November I attended the 5^th Annual JTree Tweetup (#JTreeTweetUp). Yes, it is just like it sounds, a gathering in Joshua Tree of climbers who met on Twitter. I had no idea when I started using Twitter that it would be my most productive climber network. I met Eileen (@rockgrrl), the originator of the #JTreeTweetUp, early into my Twitter life. She is very friendly and helpful and has a great website. Three years ago she encouraged me to come to a #JTreeTweetUp. So, off I went for the first time to climb with a group of climbers I had never met in-real-life. I had a great trip and I have returned every year for the #JTreeTweetup. For this #JTreeTweetup, we were met with fabulous weather and awesome climbing! We spent some time in favorite areas like Thin Wall, but also climbed areas that I had never been to before. This trip was about more than climbing, though. For example, my husband (the Huz), Sport, and I spent a week camping in Ryan campground with our new R-Pod trailer. In 33 years of marriage we always camped in tents or backpacked, but finally decided this year we would upgrade to a trailer. I may never camp in a tent again! I slept well, cooked actual meals, and stayed remarkably clean. I’m sold!

Sport love our new R-Pod. We occasionally let him up on this bed... unlike at home! Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Sport loves our new R-Pod. We occasionally let him up on this bed… unlike at home! Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

I had several other objectives for this trip. First, I am a 2013/2014 Stonewear Designs Ambassador, and brought several pieces along to product test and review. I had hiking, running, and climbing plans for product testing. Second, I wanted to devote some serious time to using my Cannon 60D camera. The Huz & Sport went off to the Colorado River for a few days so I had some time alone before the TweetUp. I brushed up on my photography skills by taking a hike up Ryan Mountain at sunset to take photos. The hike up Ryan Mountain was great, I highly recommend it. I returned by headlamp as it was getting dark. That alone made for a wonderful hike.

Sunset from atop Ryan Mountain. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

My last objective was to get some serious running in while on the trip since I was training for the California International Marathon in December. A friend suggested taking Keys View Road for my long run, which was a great workout. Except for a few spots, the grade is not too steep, just enough to get your attention. I wanted to run on a road because I was alone. In addition, many of the trails in Joshua Tree are sandy, so running can be a bit of a challenge. This route was beautiful and just about perfect for what I had in mind.

Beautiful run on the Key View Road in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

That night I met up with Eileen’s group to get the climbing schedule. People came and went according to their own schedules, but climbing was planned for each day Friday through Sunday. We started Friday at Atlantis Wall, which was exciting since the year before we were unable to climb that wall, but climbed Minotaur Wall instead. The climbs at Atlantis Wall were great – I climbed Solar Technology (5.6), Men with Cow’s Heads (5.5) and Wet Pigeon (5.8) and I attempted Ceremony (5.10c). I will definitely be back to this area on a future JTree trip!

#JTreeTweetUp folks climbing on Atlantis Wall, Joshua Tree National Park.
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

We spent most Saturday at Thin Wall. I’ve climbed at Thin Wall more than anywhere else in JTree, but I always enjoy the routes. Plus, it was verging on hot in the sun but chilly in the shade so the shade was very welcome! The route difficulty ranges from 5.6 to 5.11a. I’ve climbed or attempted to climb every route on this wall, so each trip I have a comparison to make. I was very happy with how familiar the routes felt. Part of our group spent the afternoon at Brown Wall and climbed Captain Kronos 5.9 and Brown and Serve 5.11a.

Thin Wall, right side. Joshua Tree National Park. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Thin Wall, left side. Joshua Tree National Park. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Sunday the group split with some going to Hemingway Buttress – East Face Left and my group going to Hemingway Buttress – East Face Right. This was a completely new area for both me and Eileen. We wandered around looking for it until we saw some of our group climbing on the routes. This part of Hemingway Wall is located in an alcove, almost like a grotto. It’s quiet and hidden, pretty fun on a very busy and crowded day in JTree. The routes were really fun, but be warned, we all agreed that the ratings on this wall seemed a little sandbagged. We climbed For Who the Poodle Tolls 5.9, A Farewell to Poodles 5.9, and Head Over Heals 5.10a.

Hemingway Wall – East Face Right Side. Joshua Tree National Park. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Eileen on Head Over Heals 5.10a Hemingway Wall – East Face Right Side. Joshua Tree National Park. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

This was my first time at JTree as a Stonewear Design Ambassador and I was really looking forward to testing out my selections. I brought my Lola Hoody, Alpha Hoody, Crossback Top, Rockin’ Pants and Sprinter Capris. It turned out that I basically lived in my Stonewear Designs clothing this trip, especially my Rockin’ Pants, Crossback Top, and Alpha Hoody which I wore every day to climb. These pieces were so comfortable and perfect for the weather that I just didn’t want to change! It was chilly in the shade so I needed layering and a warm – but not too warm – top. The Alpha Hoody layered with a silk weight thermal was perfect. Joshua Tree rock is rough, like really rough sandpaper, and I tend to use my elbows and knees to brace when I climb in general, but neither the Alpha Hoody nor the Rockin’ Pant pilled or tore and the dirt brushed off really easily. I have to add that the Alpha Hoody/Rockin’ Pant combination is also great for hiking in chilly weather. It was perfect for my sunset Ryan Mountain hike.

My first self portrait with my Cannon 60D and my tripod. My Alpha Hoody and Rockin’ Pants were perfect for this hike! Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

From Left: Thin Wall climbing rocking the Alpha Hoody and Rockin’ Pant.
Photo Credit: Jeremy Shapiro. Ready to climb in my Alpha Hoody and Rockin’ Pants!
Photo Credit: Eileen Ringwald

When it was warmer I put on my very favorite Lola Hoody. And, as my earlier review of this top said, it continues to perform like a champ. I did my long run in my Sprinter Capris, and Crossback Top. I have found that the Crossback Top is so comfortable that I it feels like it was custom made for me. It has become my long run go-to sports bra. I always make sure it’s ready to go when I have anything over 6 miles to run. It has been washed and washed and washed countless times, yet it still looks and feels new. The Sprinter Capris are lightweight and breathe well. They also have a pocket in the back that is perfect for a key + one container of Gu. That outfit was a perfect combination for the weather that was unseasonably warm in the sun. Ladies, have a look at the Stonewear Designs catalog. Great clothes perfect for climbing, running, and hiking. And, it is important to me that the their clothes are assembled in the US.

Me and Sport on a run at home – not Joshua Tree but I wanted to show off my Lola Hoody and Sprinter Capris! Photo Credit: Dan Ledesma

This was one of my best trips to JTree. I didn’t necessarily climb many routes, but I enjoyed what I did climb. I got to visit with my #JTreeTweetUp friends. I explored new areas, I did several really nice runs, the hike up Ryan Mountain was beautiful and I learned new photography techniques. I look forward to the trip every year now!

Campfire fun! #JtreeTweetUp 5 Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Check out my post on climbing in Indian Creek with Eileen in March 2013!

The Summer of Semi-Successful Alpine Climbing

Posted on September 10, 2013 by rockmaven56

Me on Bear Creek Spire. Photo credit: Josh Ulloa

Alpine climbing is a high-overhead activity. Carefully planned long hikes into the back country culminating with an intimidatingly large mountain presenting itself to you. Not much room for error or you risk benighting at the mountain’s hand. But it is precisely those qualities that draw us to alpine climbing. I am relatively new to true alpine climbing. After this 2013 alpine season I realize that I was extremely lucky with my previous two alpine climbs. The first was Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows in 2010. And that climb wasn’t immediately successful. It was delayed twice – first by late snow then by a fire closing Tioga Pass Road. My partner and I finally climbed it in windy and cold conditions. At one belay my jacket whipped in the wind making the same sound flags make in high winds. I could barely stay upright. We opted not to finish the climb to the postage stamp sized summit block in the gale force winds. Instead, we stopped 25 ft from the top and descended the backside. So, although we climbed all but the last 25 ft, I have not summited Cathedral Peak. The second was the East Buttress Route on Mt. Whitney in 2011. That was the climb of my life. My trip report from that climb is on the Chicks Climbing website. The climbing was absolutely gorgeous. But we were benighted, summiting at 7 pm and arriving back in camp at 2 am after endless rappels in the dark over the steep snow covered the Mountaineers Route. My first outing in crampons, I wasn’t sure I could successfully self arrest so slipping was not an option!

Sometimes I wonder whether I am cut out for this alpine climbing stuff. But then I find myself looking through guidebooks at new alpine challenges. It’s like the marathons I run, this one will be different… With that thought, my climbing partner Josh, and I considered several Sierra Nevada alpine climbs for the 2013 season: Tenaya Peak, Cathedral Peak, Matthes Crest, and Bear Creek Spire. We chose Matthes Crest and Bear Creek Spire as our focus and set two dates. As with most climbers, families and work compress our time to try to achieve our alpine climbing goals. We set two dates and knew we would likely only have those two chances. Luckily, Josh and I share the same philosophy that just being in the back country is a reward. Summiting the project peak is gravy. Our friend, Teri, was also able to join us on both dates. So, we planned the trips as a party of three.

Matthes Crest was our first goal. At the end of June, we camped in Tuolumne Meadows campground and planned a car-to-car climb. It’s six miles to the base of Matthes Crest but most climbers I know who have climbed it have done it as a day trip. So, how hard could it be? Famous last words. Teri, thankfully before the hike, realized it was 3 hours, not 3 miles, to the base of the climb. She had been having knee issues and decided the round trip of over 12 miles would be too much for her at that time. So, that left just Josh and me heading to the climb. The weather that day was ridiculously hot. California was suffering through a very significant heat wave. Even at 10,000 ft it was oppressive and humid. We were down to our short sleeve shirts and sweating at 6:30am as we left the car for the trail head. Being fresh in the morning, we still were able to set out on the trail at a speedy but comfortable pace. Unfortunately, we managed to miss our Budd Lake turnoff and suddenly were at the base of Cathedral Peak instead of across the canyon. It turned out we could head off cross country to the shoulder of Echo Peak but this detour ate up precious time.

Matthes Crest in all it’s glory. It is truly beautiful. The route starts at the steep edge all the way to the right of the crest. Photo credit: Terrell Barry

We hiked over the west shoulder of Echo Peaks and were presented with the Matthes Crest, which was absolutely beautiful. However, there was a large wash between us and the base of the climb. Added to our unplanned detour was the vague description of how to get to the base of the climb once we were over the shoulder of Echo Peak and close to Matthes Crest. Based on the guidebook, we elected to hike down one side of the wash and up the steep other side to reach the base of the climb. As I looked across I was worried about the slabs below the base of the route. They looked very steep. It was slow going in the late morning sun. Luckily, once we were working our way up towards the climb we found that the slabs looked much steeper than they actually were. Finally, we caught a break!

The base of the Matthes Crest route. There is a climber in this photo. He’s the black speck towards the top, and just about dead center left to right. That gives a sense of scale to this place! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

We arrived at the base of the climb at noon on a very hot day. We both agreed that since it was noon, the route is 0.8 miles long, and neither of us had ever simul-climbed we would enjoy our lunch then head back to camp. There was a party on pitch 2 of the climb. We watched their progress, which was pretty slow, and decided we had definitely made the right decision. We now had lots of information about how to get there and what the route looked like in person – for next time!

The view south and east from the base of Matthes Crest. Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Josh leads the way back towards Echo Peaks on the way out. Sticking to the contour was the way to go!

Josh leads the way back towards Echo Peaks on the way out. The route passes along the left side of the peak. Sticking to the contour was the way to go! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Next up, a month later, was Bear Creek Spire in Little Lakes Valley. The approach to Bear Creek Spire is also 6 miles but 2.5 miles are over talus slope. Hazardous and slow going. So the three of us agreed that we would backpack in to Dade Lake and establish camp. We would have a full day to concentrate on the climb without worrying about a huge car-to-car pressure. Our wilderness permit was for three days, hike in Friday, climb Saturday, hike out Sunday. Too bad our weekend coincided with heavy smoke in Little Lakes Valley from forest fires burning over the crest of the Sierra to the west. The smoke was so heavy that the surrounding mountains, including Bear Creek Spire were obscured. We had discussions on Thursday night about whether we would continue with our plan. On the positive side, the forecast for Saturday was for no smoke and clear weather. But, it was only a forecast. Friday morning was clear so, off we went.

The crew on our way to Bear Creek Spire, me, Teri, and Josh. Bear Creek Spire is the peak just to the right of Josh’s head. The route is the sweeping left to right arch.

Little Lakes Valley is gorgeous. Some of the best views in the Sierra. We were quickly at Gem Lakes and the base of the 2.5 mile talus slope.

There it is – the start of the talus shlog to Dade Lake. Here’s some beta: stay to the center or climber’s left. We went right, not the best choice! Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

After several very mentally focused hours of boulder hoping with heavy backpacks on, we were on the fell field at Dade Lake below Bear Creek Spire. I cannot over state the focus the talus field travel required. We were all glad to be at Dade Lake. The smoke, however, crept up the canyon behind us and soon we were surrounded by it in camp.

A smoky view of Bear Creek Spire. Photo Credit: Terrell Barry

Our pika friend in camp. He was very entertaining!

Can you find our camp pika? He was very entertaining! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

That night we slept with smoke. I have exercise induced asthma and I wear contact lenses so my throat and eyes were not happy. We wondered what we would find the next day.

A smoke free morning below Bear Creek Spire. Our route is the sun/shade line arching left to right. The descent is off the right had side behind the peak. Note the talus! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Thankfully, Saturday morning brought no smoke at camp but it was visible lingering down the canyon. Would it come up to envelope us while we climbed? We set off for the route just before 7am. More talus confronted us to get to the route. The guide book said it should take 45 minutes to get to the North East Ridge route. It took us almost two hours. It was not clear which way was the best to get to the route start. We wandered a bit, avoiding steep looking slabs and black ice, and we were not on the route until 9am. As we looked south we saw in the distance thunderhead looking clouds. Above us were wispy, swirling clouds. We once again had a discussion about how we should proceed. We decided to start the route while keeping an eye on the sky.

Smoke and clouds to the southeast of Bear Creek Spire. Hmm… Photo credit: Terrell Barry

The North East Ridge Route is 1200 ft long so, if we wanted to avoid descending in the dark there would be little margin for error in assumptions about how long it would take us to summit. However, the first third of the route is 3rd and easy 4^th class climbing. We were all still in our approach shoes. I was having a really good time just enjoying the views and the ridiculously easy climbing. Very quickly we were at the first tower.

Yay! Climbing Bear Creek Spire! This part was very easy and very fun.

Yay! Finally climbing Bear Creek Spire! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Just beyond this point is the crux of the route across 5^th class rock fins. Retreating after this point would be doable but complicated. We were worried about the thickening clouds drifting up from the south and the swirling of the clouds above us. We had most of the route still to do and we couldn’t see the easy 4^th class beyond the crux that was described in the guidebook.

The view looking up from the first tower on Bear Creek Spire. Photo credit: Terrell Barry

We decided, given the potential for bad weather, and the fact that we were climbing in a party of three, that we should retreat to camp. Disappointing, but better safe than sorry. We turned back and headed to camp. We found a better route across the slabs and scree back to camp. Information for a possible next time.

Our snack break at the first tower on Bear Creek Spire. Josh and Teri. Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Teri having a look back at Bear Creek Spire on our way back to camp. Photo credit: Terrell Barry

Clouds building behind us on the descent. We were unsure whether they were friendly or unfriendly clouds! Photo credit: Terrell Barry

We were back at camp just before noon. Josh and I, always on the same wavelength, were thinking that hiking out that day was an option. It would make Sunday a much shorter day for the drive home. Teri elected to stay the night, preferring to hike out the next morning. She told us she often solo backpacks so we felt ok about heading down without her. Josh and I packed up and headed back to the trail head. About 2 miles into the 2.5 mile talus hike Josh muttered that he didn’t think he needed to do this again. I agreed. But I did point out that memory is a funny thing and we may change our mind later… We were back at the campground, where my husband was camped, by 6:30 pm. We had beers and dinner together. I don’t think we had even finish dinner before Josh and I were plotting our next attempt on Bear Creek Spire. Memory is a funny thing!

So, this was an unsuccessful summer from a goal achieving standpoint but successful in that we learned a lot about two climbs we want to do. The hiking was beautiful and we enjoyed the backcountry. Successful alpine climbing partnerships are built on agreement about when and where to turn around. This was a very successful summer from that standpoint. I’m disappointed that no summits were bagged but planning for 2014 has already started!

A full set of photos is posted here.

Terri, Leo, and Eileen’s Excellent Indian Creek Adventure

Posted on May 4, 2013 by rockmaven56

Ahhh, Indian Creek. Where do I begin? When I started climbing outdoors in late 2008 I read everything I could about where to go climbing. I live near Sacramento, California and we are lucky to have many day trip destinations. Lake Tahoe, the Sierra foothills, the San Francisco Bay area, even Yosemite. Easy weekend trips can be made to Yosemite or the Eastside of the Sierra. I actually made a day trip to Lee Vining to ice climb this winter! Longer weekend trips include Joshua Tree, the High Desert, Smith Rock in Oregon. The list goes on. But it wasn’t long before I began to look afar. I discovered Indian Creek in Utah pretty quickly. It stuck firmly in my psyche. The photos grabbed me. I wanted to climb there. The question was… when would I be ready. Even at the naive beginning of my outdoor climbing it was not lost on me that climbing in “The Creek” would be difficult. So, over the last several years I focused on developing crack climbing skills. I moved up the grades outdoors. Last season I followed some 5.9 and 5.10a crack climbs and have top roped up to 5.10d face climbs. I’ve lead a little here and there. I’ve been to Joshua Tree enough times to figure out the minimum skills needed to crack climb. One of my early partners, Jason, donated an entire trip to Joshua Tree to helping me learn to crack climb, bless his heart!

Me doing laps on
Double Cross/Joshua Tree
Photo Credit:
Sean Barry 2011

But I wasn’t sure when the opportunity to head to Indian Creek would materialize and if I would be even remotely ready to climb there when it did.Then one day this last February, a discussion began on Twitter about an Indian Creek trip. Suddenly it seemed possible. When my main outdoor partner, Leo (@LeoDClimber), said he could go this spring it became inevitable – we would go! Was I ready? I wasn’t sure. He wasn’t sure he was ready (I knew otherwise, he was ready!). So, we spent several sessions at local climbing gyms (Planet Granite SF and Granite Arch in Rancho Cordova) known for their awesome cracks to convince ourselves we could make it off the ground (in my case) and lead climbs (in Leo’s case). We planned the trip. The cracks at Indian Creek are long and often the same size. So, many cams of the same size are needed. We borrowed cams from all our friends – we needed 12 #2 Black Diamond Camalots alone. We would drive there in one day. Climb four days. Drive back over two days. Happily, my friend Eileen (@rockgrrl, coordinator of #JTreeTweetup) was able to join us. She flew into Sacramento from Southern California and drove with us. My friend Haley (@climbliftrunmom) came from Salt Lake for the weekend with her friend Matt (@provotrout). Haley and I had conversed quite a bit by Twitter and Skype but we would meet in real life (IRL) for the first time in Indian Creek. That was exciting! Our friend Luke (@lstefurak) was already in Indian Creek. Good thing too because we ended up crashing his campsite in the Creek Pasture Campgrounds when we couldn’t find an open site at 11pm the night we arrived. Big, big thank you to Luke! It was suddenly a mini-tweeup!

So, after driving 15+ hours on Wednesday Leo, Eileen and I were settled into our sleeping bags around midnight. We had decided during the drive that we would head to a climb called Bunny Slope for our very first Indian Creek (IC) climb. Sweet dreams! The next morning the weather was glorious. We sort of slept in but it was chilly anyway so no worries there. We met all the people staying in Luke’s campsite. What a great group. Lots of activity and talk about all the climbs people planned to do.

It was just the three of us heading to Bunny Slope 5.9+ (160’) on Critic’s Choice Wall. This was the climb that required the 12 #2 BD Camalots. We also would need to tie our two 70m ropes together to top rope it. Quite an introduction! So, off we went. Leo and I have gotten much better at finding climbs and Eileen had been to IC once before so we found the parking area with out to much trouble. We spotted the climb immediately and found the trail. The question to myself, “I wonder how you get up to those climbs…” was answered. The trails are steep and, in most cases, long. But the trails are also well maintained and marked with cairns. Thank you to Friends of Indian Creek!

Critic's Choice Wall. Bunny Slope is just to the right of the dark vertical line on the far left side of the wall.

Critic’s Choice Wall
Bunny Slope is just to the right of the dark vertical line on the left side of the wall.
Photo: Terrell Barry 2013

So soon we were at the base of the climb. Leo was racked up and ready to lead his first IC climb. About 25 feet into the climb he remarked that he hoped the #2 size section happened soon since he hadn’t brought much else. I read the guide book beta to him and sure enough, he hit the first #2 placement just where it said he would (several of the other descriptions in the guide book would not be so accurate…). It was clear this climb was both long and hard work. I don’t often hear him breathing hard when he leads. But he finished it in great style.

Leo on his first Indian Creek lead.
Bunny Slope 5.9
Photo Credit:
Terrell Barry 2013

Next it was my turn. The moment of truth had come. Could I even get off the ground, let alone get to the top… The start was hard – that seems to be the case on many of the IC climbs. I was thinking that I would, indeed, not make it off ground. Then I managed to make a few moves off the deck (Leo may have helped me there a bit…). I gathered myself up onto the first small ledge and got ready for the rest of the climb. I’m not sure how many takes I required. I lost count. But I made slow, steady progress. The jams got a little better as I went but the difficulty did not let up. It looks like the steepness of the route eases up as it approached the anchors but it was only an optical illusion! And at the very top there is a pretty wild set of moves. Fun but unexpected. I won’t give it away tho! Eileen saw a side of me she had not seen before but Leo knows well. That’s the “Terri climbing at her limit, lots of noise, foul language” side of me. Yeah, I did a lot of that this trip. But guess what, I made it to the top! And, I liked it! Next was Eileen’s turn on Bunny Slope and she did a great job. She followed it cleanly. I watched her technique, trying to learn tips for the next climb.

That speck on the wall is me top roping Bunny Slope
Leo belaying me.
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

Me on Elephant Ear 5.10+
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

Our first climb of the trip was under our belt. The other climbs on the Critic’s Wall were more difficult than we wanted to tackle the first day. So, we headed back to the car and off to Donnelly Canyon. It was late in the day and the hike is short to Donnelly Canyon from the parking area. We had hoped to get on Binou’s Crack 5.9 but a group was already on it. So, we chose Elephant Ear 5.10+ (120ft) instead. Leo made quick work of it. I think he hit his stride right away on the first day! I watched Eileen climb it, noting that she said it was indeed “funky hands” as the guide book said. I had less trouble with this climb, but yes, it was funky. I didn’t climb it clean but I did climb sections of it well (no clean climbs this trip but that’s ok!).

The last climb of the day was Chocolate Corner 5.9 (60’). Leo led it and left the gear in so Eileen could pink pointed her first IC lead. She looked very solid!

Eileen leading
Chocolate Corner 5.9
Photo Credit:
Terrell Barry 2013

When it was my turn, I thought, hey, it’s 5.9 – easier grade and shorter than the other two climbs we did today. What could go wrong… I needed to clean the anchors. I had to make it to the top. It was getting dark. The climb is a somewhat tight corner. My left leg didn’t want to bend the way it needed to in order to have a solid foot jam. The hand jams were not solid for me. I struggled, I cried, I swore, I had a mini asthma attack. At one point I wasn’t sure I could make it to the top. But I did. It wasn’t pretty. As he always is, Leo was very patient on belay. It had been a very long time since I struggled that much on a climb. I am still angry at myself for crying and subjecting my partners to that. I certainly learned more new lessons. Personal growth, personal growth. Never to old for personal growth. As a reward to all of us for a day of great climbs and hard work, we treated ourselves to dinner in Moab that night. Pizza & beer. Yay. Back to camp at midnight… Boo.

The view from Super Crack Buttress. Not a bad place to spend the day!
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

Our plan for the next day was to hang out at Super Crack Buttress. Leo had his eye on The Incredible Hand Crack 5.10 (100’) as the first climb of the day. It is billed as perhaps the most climbed route in IC. But when we got there it was open! So, Leo, the leading machine, jumped on it. With just a little trouble at the overhanging roof section, he made it to the anchors. It was fun to watch. I have no idea what it feels like to climb like that but it looks very fun. Great job!

Leo leads
Incredible Hand Crack 5.10
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

I had predetermined that I would not attempt the roof section if Incredible Hand Crack. Instead, I aimed at making it to the ledge just below where the roof starts. The route start out as an off-width and it’s slick from being climbed so much. I was worried again that I actually wouldn’t make it off the ground. But eventually I made it to the first ledge. It was surprisingly difficult to get up on the first ledge. I used a right knee jam and grunted up onto the ledge. The crack was still a little wide moving from the first to the second ledge. But then, there I was on the second ledge! After that there is a vertical section on this climb that is the perfect size for me. It turns out the perfect size for me is #2 Camalot, not #1 as I had thought. Perfect hand jams, perfect foot jams. I actually climbed probably 10 moves without doing a take! All the way to my predetermined goal. I was happy! Eileen was last and “had to make it to the top” to clean the anchors. It was hard work, but she did a phenomenal job and didn’t swear at all… hmmm. I need to be more like her!

That’s me climbing Incredible Hand Crack 5.10
Photo Credit:
Leo Ramirez 2013

Next Leo headed to Super Crack 5.10 (100’). This climb was perfect for him. He was like a sewing machine, boom, boom, boom, one move after another. And then he was finished. It was beautiful.

Leo cruising his lead of
Super Crack 5.10
Photo Credit:
Eileen Decallar Ringwald Photography 2013

I don’t normally sit climbs out. But, no, I didn’t need to climb Super Crack this trip. It takes 5 #3 Camalots. That’s big. Not off-width but too big for me right now. I would surely have been finished for the day and wasted a lot of climbing time in the process. Eileen gave it a go and she did a great job. The little roof in the photo is harder than it looks. She worked the moves to get over it. She also kept repeating that the crack was big. I think half her arm disappeared into the crack!

Eileen working Super Crack 5.10
Photo Credit:
Terrell Barry 2013

I saved my energy for Twin Cracks 5.9 (60’). Again, I thought, it’s short and 5.9, it looks doable. I should be able to handle this, maybe I’ll get it clean. Well, I struggled again. No crying this time but there were some choice words. Man, I had to work really hard just to make it to the top. More crack climbing lessons learned!

Me on Twin Cracks 5.9
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

Leo finished the day up on No Name Crack 5.10 (120’). Neither Eileen nor I climbed it, and that was ok with us! It was in the sun and it looked really hard. But the route is beautiful. Next time!

Leo leading No Name Crack 5.10
Photo Credit:
Terrell Barry 2013

We went directly back to camp at the end of the day and enjoyed relaxing with Luke and his friends. We had a nice campfire, stayed up too late having fun visiting, and just as we were turning in for the night Haley and Matt arrived from Salt Lake. Haley and I hugged our IRL hug and then off to bed for all of us. Yeah! On Saturday, the late night and chilly morning led to us getting a little later start than we planned.

On our way to Selfish Wall
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

We ultimately decided to head to Selfish Wall. Haley knew the way so we saved some time finding our way. This is one of the steeper hikes. Not as long as the hike to Critic’s Choice Wall but every bit as steep. However, the hike is totally worth it. I had hoped to lead Hand Solo 5.9 (30’) but after my experience the first two days I thought it was safer to follow first, then decide. I’m glad I did. I wasn’t ready to lead in IC this trip. I enjoyed Hand Solo and climbed it well but I still came off more than once. My hand and foot jams were getting better by the day. However, I wasn’t solid enough on any climb to consider leading. Next time!

Finally starting to adjust to Indian Creek.
Me on Hand Solo 5.9
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

Everyone in our group climbed Hand Solo. Eileen and Haley led it. It was Eileen’s first on-site lead at Indian Creek!

Haley leads Hand Solo 5.9 while Matt belays
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

Leo leads The Duo 5.11- on the left while Eileen leads Hand Solo 5.9 on the right
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

Leo’s next lead was The Duo 5.10 (50’). As he was climbing he said it was really fun and I had to try it. So, I made it my second climb on Selfish Wall. I did pretty well on this climb. The start is very wide but I did it as a layback, per Eileen’s suggestion. There is a section of traverse in the middle that was scary because a swing would be big and into the left facing edge. But the top of the climb once again was the perfect size for me. That #2 Camalot. I truly enjoyed that part of the climb, even the bulge that was challenging to get over. Solid hand and foot jams. Progress! I belayed Matt as he climbed The Duo. While we were climbing, Leo was leading A Breakfast Social 5.10 (40’). This route would be my last climb of the day. Leo said he thought I would like it. He knows my climbing style well! The guidebook says “ramping fingers in a right-facing dihedral with features.” I loved this climb. It made the trip for me. Much of it was finger jams rather than hand jams but there were steming opportunities for the feet. I came off only once. And I felt pretty solid. Perfect end to the day! I had made a pact with myself that I would not talk to myself while I climbed A Breakfast Social, but I was woefully unsuccessful. Haley laughed and said it was like a narrated climb. So, I didn’t feel so bad about it!

Leo’s last climb of the day was the hardest climb of the trip, Solo East 5.11 (55’). A finger crack . This was a climb that the guidebook did not deliver on in the way of beta. I was belaying and about half way up Leo remarked that he was out of gear that was small enough. He decided to back-clean and continue. He worked really hard and did an awesome job. But, eventually, he took his very first whipper, which meant I caught my very first whipper. Needless to say, it was “exciting” for both of us. After injury assessment he called down that he was ok. Being the awesome climber he is, he continued and finished the climb.Then both Haley and Eileen followed it! That was impressive.

Eileen following Solo East 5.11
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

The crew heading up to Way Rambo for our last day of climbing
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

Our last climbing day was Sunday. We selected Way Rambo to end our trip. We had hoped to get on Blue Sun 5.10- (65’) but when we arrived a large group was already climbing the routes on that section of the wall. So we moved around the corner and waited in line for Rochambeau 5.9 (75’). The guide book says “a little bit of everything” and it was right. Leo made quick work of the route, it was more of a warm-up for him. Then Haley followed. I climbed it next on what I knew was my last climb in IC. It is not completely a crack route. There are holds outside the crack. The moves are interesting. The balance is delicate. The route is really a series of small roofs and it gets more overhung as you reach the top. I really liked it and I only came off once. That was a perfect end to the climbing trip for me! I certainly ended the trip a much better crack climber than when I arrived.

Leo leads Rochambeau 5.9
with me on belay
Photo Credit:
Eileen Descallar Ringwald Photography 2013

Leo, Eileen, and Haley were not finished however. Eileen climbed Rochambeau then all three gave Fuzz 5.10 (115’) a go. It was Leo’s last lead and it was fun to watch. The start was very awkward and bouldery. Then it transitioned to an increasingly vertical to slightly overhanging crack. I wished I had the energy and skill to climb Fuzz that day. Eileen cleaned the route. This route takes some big gear – 4 #3’s, 3 “3.5’s and a 4. So, it was not ideal size for Eileen. But she worked it and made it to the top.

Eileen doing the bouldery start to The Fuzz
Photo Credit:
Terrell Barry 2013

Eileen at the top of The Fuzz
Photo Credit: Terrell Barry 2013

So, our climbing in IC was over. What a great trip! We hiked back to the car and headed to camp to pack up. Haley and Matt were off to the Salt Lake area.

Happy Crew!
Left to Right: Matt, Haley, Me, Eileen, Leo

We headed west, making a quick stop in Arches NP where Eileen got this awesome photo of lightening.

Then we traveled on to a small town in western Utah for the night. On our drive home we took Hwy 50 – The Loneliest Road in America. It was a great drive.

Somewhere in Nevada…

So, it turned out I could make if off the ground in Indian Creek. I struggled quite a bit but I learned a lot and actually did enjoy all the climbs… except for Chocolate Corner. Indian Creek is certainly a harsh environment. It was windy, dusty, and hot. The hikes to most of the climbs are strenuous. And the climbing is strenuous. But it is worth every moment of effort. I would return in a heartbeat. And I continue to feel so fortunate and lucky to have my climbing friends!

Click the text for my Indian Creek photo album

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