Every since I took my ice climbing class in January 2011 I have wanted to go to the Ouray Ice Park. On January 2, 2014 I shared to my Facebook page an article about ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Park on a blog I follow.  My comment on the post was “Must. Go. To. Ouray.” Early the morning of January 3 my friend Karen responded with “Let’s Go!” And my twitter/fb friend Diane responded “Come on down! We live just 45 minutes away, and it’ll be an opportunity to finally meet in person.”  Karen suggested we drive. That removed my final reservation about airfare and rental car costs. By January 6 the trip was a go.  We would to be in Ouray February 12-17. Wow, I didn’t see that coming at the New Year!

Karen had been to Ouray several years ago when she took a Chicks with Picks ice climbing class. Base on her familiarity we made a list of what equipment we would need. We planned to top rope, neither of us lead on ice. This would be a bit of a landmark trip for both of us. Karen was excited to return to Ouray on her own. I was the more experienced outdoor and ice climber of the two of us and would be the “lead” in terms of setting up anchors. In the past I had always been one of several experienced climbers, this time it was just me! We also had decided to hire a guide for one day. We agreed that Saturday would be perfect, giving us two days on our own beforehand. Also, the guide would be handy on Saturday since it was the holiday weekend. A guide could help us climb in areas that were logistically more difficult. Karen booked a guide through San Juan Mountain Guides.

We left from Truckee, California at 5 am on Wednesday morning. We only stopped for gas so we were in Ouray 14 hours later. Not bad! That night we organized our gear and set the alarm for 6 am. We stayed at the Comfort Inn, which was a great choice. The owners and staff are so friendly, it’s very affordable, and the breakfast is awesome. On Thursday morning we discovered a selection of waffles, eggs, sausage, yogurt, biscuits and gravy, fruit, cereal, oatmeal, coffee, milk, and juice. I listed everything because it was such an impressive spread! We were very well fed and ready for our first day of ice climbing.

Day 1- We started out the day walking to the ice park. Karen suggested we walk and I’m really glad she did. As we walked we consulted the guidebook to get the lay of the park. We donned our harnesses, crampons, and helmets at the gate of the park (that’s the rule!). We decide that “Schoolroom” would be the best place to start. The anchors are all located along a catwalk above the climbing area. The anchors are numbered and bolted and there are several WI2 and WI3 climbs to warm up on. We chose our bolts – #10 – and set to constructing our anchor. The anchors at Schoolroom need to be extended, so long static line, cordelette, or webbing is required. I had brought along a 30’ static line. I used several figure-8’s on bights to set up a redundant anchor with two opposite and opposed lockers on the master point. Karen examined the anchor and confirmed for herself that it was redundant. Turns out we work very well together. And, yeah, she was ready to set up her own anchor!

Now, it was time to walk down to the base of the climb. We encountered an icy and steep trail down to the bottom of the canyon. There is a rope hand line to use but with a heavy pack it was a little unnerving. With caution we made it. At the bottom of the canyon I would find my potential waterloo – a ladder bridge over the creek. I’m not known for my log crossing ability so seeing the ladder bridge definitely gave me a pause. I held my breath and took short, careful steps. I managed to not fall in! Small victories.

The climb we set up on anchor #10 is number 60 “Teacher’s Pet” WI3. There were two lines off of the anchor so we got two climbs for one. It was a nice mellow start to the trip. Pretty easy climbing and a good warm-up. We both climbed both lines. Next we headed back up to the catwalk, which involved crossing that ladder bridge again. Good practice for me! We moved our rope to anchor number #9 and the climb is number 61 and is called “Report Card” WI3. We were able to move our anchor as it was constructed since the set-up was the right length for this climb too, that saved some time. That allowed us to easily get two more lines climbed. Four routes of WI3, all 32m, for the first day was ok with us! I felt like I was getting into my climbing groove and Karen was feeling pretty confident too. It was 3:30 and the park closes at 4pm. So, we hiked up to the catwalk and gathered up our rope and anchor materials and headed back to the Comfort Inn. The temperatures the first day were in the 40’s so we weren’t cold at all. I hardly used my down jacket or down mittens when belaying.  That was nice but we were wishing it was a little colder. The forecast was not hopeful though, each day was forecasted to be warmer than the last during our trip.

Day 2 – Once again, after a full breakfast, we walked to the ice park. This was a really nice way to warm up in the morning. And you don’t have to fight for one of the few parking places near the park. I highly recommend walking! We headed back to Schoolroom mulling over whether we would start on a WI4 route. This worked out well because, although we left earlier than the day before, when we got to the Schoolroom there were already lines set up on all the WI2 and WI3 climbs. Get there early, early if you want easier climbs! So, while we debated how quickly to up the difficulty, today it seemed, we would have no choice. We grabbed the WI4 bolts we were standing at, #8. This climb is number 62 “Recess” WI4 in the guide-book. We continued to use the anchor setup from the day before, it worked just as well on this anchor as the previous two. We debated rappelling this time but we both felt a little unsure about climbing over the railing along the catwalk. Maybe next trip. Instead, we walked down the same trail from the day before, the rope hand line was beginning to feel routine and the ladder bridge not so threatening. The climbing lines on this anchor were definitely steeper than those the day before. I started first and really enjoyed getting on some steeper ice. The temperatures were barely freezing over night so the ice was definitely “hero ice” meaning the tools place very easily. The lines on this anchor were really fun! But I was also eyeing the lines to the right, thinking we would move to those bolts (#7) when we were finished. Then, someone yelled “Rope!” and down came a rope on those lines. Happily for us, the group on that anchor was interested to share ropes with us. This turns out to be common at the park. Of course, not everyone wants to share. And, of course, you should check out the anchor before you share. Karen and I were very happy when Thomas (the owner of anchor #7) said our anchor was bomber! We knew that but it was nice to have someone else say it too.

I’ve had the opportunity to ice climb several times each season since my 2010 class. So, I usually feel pretty confident in my climbing. But for Karen, this was the first time she had ice climbed in 2 years. So, understandably, the first day she was a little tentative. But, each day we climbed, she visibly improved. It very so was fun to see her make leaps in technique and confidence each day as she got her ice climbing mojo back. Day 2 plus steeper ice was just what she needed! We both ended the day on 5 lines. Having gotten some great climbing under our belt, we were ready for our Day 3 with San Juan Mountain Guides.

Day 3 – Guide Day! We headed to the San Juan Mountain Guides office at 7:30. We met our guide, Gary, and then found out Gary would have a shadow guide for the day, Jeff. Jeff is already a guide but is working towards his IFMGA Mountain Guide certification. Gary is already a IFMGA Mountain Guide, thus the shadowing. Sweet! This was shaping up to be a great day. Once again, we walked from the office to the park. We let Gary know that we have a couple of objectives: we wanted to build anchors in more challenging areas, climb steeper ice, and work with lowering a climber into to the canyon and then belaying the climber from the top. We started above an area called Alcove. We located a bolt/chain anchor on Route 79 “Dream Team” M4. Setting up the anchor would mean stepping down the slope and clipping in to the chain with our Personal Anchor Systems (PAS) because the master point would be towards the bottom of the chain. First Karen and then I stepped down on to the groove that the chain was in. It wasn’t as steep or difficult as it looked and I felt quite comfortable once I took the first step. Gary handed Karen and I a variety of anchor materials and said, “ok, show me how you’ll build an anchor.” We consulted each other and then set up a very nice anchor based on a Super-8 master-point. Once we were done Gary pointed out that we had left the rope up on the top of the slope. Neither Karen nor I had even thought about the rope. Luckily Jeff was there to hand it to us! Rope in the master-point lockers locked, rope tossed over the edge and we were ready to set up the next anchor. This one was Route 77 “Flamenco” WI4 and involved stepping out  on to an exposed slope to anchor off a tree. We had considered this route on Day 1 but the exposure getting to the tree and the need to rappel into the climb had changed our mind. Today it was much easier! Gary showed us how to approach the tree safely and we had no problem setting up the anchor off the tree. Soon we were rappelling into the Alcove and it was time to climb.

On Flamenco, Gary showed us a demonstration, the delicate ice climbing dance. He moved so fluidly it was fun to watch. Once we started to climb I found that, although I could climb long WI4 pitches relatively easily, my footwork definitely needed improvement. I concentrated on the pattern of tool work and footwork that Gary had demonstrated. I already had the “monkey hang” down from my very first route 2 years ago – it just came very naturally for some reason. But that was Karen’s lesson to work on. She ended the day with a very natural looking “monkey hang.” She remarked how much easier it was to climb once she got the hang, as in “monkey hang,” of it!

While we were climbing Jeff had set up a line off Route 79 that was all ice rather than a mixed route. It was a very interesting line that started with a shelf to be gained a couple of moves into the route, then some fancy footwork to move to the right and up on to some very steep ice. It was very fun and a little challenging. Perfect way to step up the difficulty. Both Karen and I learned quite a bit on that climb. Once we were finished with that line it was time to move on to the next area. Jeff climbed out on Flamenco and belayed us from the top so Karen and I could climb out side-by-side. We needed to stay level with each other so we had to work together. It was a great challenge for both of us. I actually had an unexpected fall because I wasn’t paying attention to my tools while I waited for Karen. I felt secure while I waited but the ice was softer than I realized due to the warm day and my tool left pulled straight out of the ice towards me while I had my hand off my right took shaking out. Luckily I didn’t get a tool in the face! That was a lesson learned.

Once on top we disassembled the anchors, coiled the rope and headed to the next climb. This is where we would work on lowering a climber in to the canyon and then belaying from the top. We would do this on the classic route, Route 93 “Pic ‘O the Vic” WI4. We set up our anchor slinging a large tree using the climbing rope and a Follow-Through Figure 8. Then we worked on the lowering setup and how to change to the belay from above, off the anchor set-up. I had done both before but this was new to Karen. She picked it up very quickly and soon Gary was asking me if I was ready to climb. After spending the day together he had (correctly) sized me up as ready to be lowered into the canyon and climb out. Of course I was!!! I was hoping to get on one of these long, steep climbs. Pick ‘O the Vic is 45m. We worked out our signal system since we wouldn’t be able to hear each other. Loud whoops and/or rope tugs. I step backwards toward the edge as Karen lowered. I couldn’t see the bottom for probably the first 10m. Then it finally came into view. It was awesome! So far down there. Karen lowered me smoothly. Towards the bottom the ice disappeared and a giant chasm opened up. My feet were suddenly free in the air. I had to keep myself right and aim for a stable point on the ground as it came up to me. Standing on the ground I though, “uh oh, how do I start this climb?” Then I remembered that Gary said that my route and the route immediately to the right started in the same place. There to my right was a giant pillar. Whew!

I made my two whoops but heard none in return. So I waited for rope tugs. When I though I felt them I made a couple of move off the ground but I had slack in the rope that wasn’t pulled up. So I down climbed back to the ground and waited. Then I felt two distinct tugs and the rope stayed taught. Ok, time to climb! It was a joy to climb that route. I couldn’t see the top from the bottom, just as I couldn’t see the bottom from the top. So much ice! And the climbing was easy, even though it was relatively steep. I was having the time of my life. I practice my ice dance, rested, and danced some more. If I could do nothing but climb long, steep ice the rest of my life I would be happy. At one rest as I shook one hand out, then changed to the other, I realized I could do a both hands off the tools shake. It was absolutely awesome – and Jeff, who was on the bridge taking pictures, got me taking my both hands off rest!

As I move closer to the top I saw Gary peaking his head over the edge, checking my progress. I yelled up a big “Hi, this is awesome!” When I reached the top I was sorry it was over but so happy I got to do that route on this trip. Before the day was over I practiced lowering Jeff into the canyon and belaying him up. That was a perfect way to wrap up the day!

We found out as we left the park that the park manager, Kevin, got some photos of me with the drone he flies each day. I was pretty excited to get those photos in addition to the ones Jeff took from the bridge. Plus Jeff posted a photo of me on the San Juan Mountain Guides facebook page. That was a nice surprise when I came across it as I scrolled through my facebook feed.

That night we headed to Montrose for dinner with Diane and Charlie Winger. I was very excited to meet Diane and Charlie “In Real Life.” Diane and I had become good Twitter friends, then facebook friends, over the last year or so. I knew of the Wingers even before that because of their excellent climbing guide “The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9.” They have a great website with quite a few books that they have written together and separately (link). Karen and I met Diane and Charlie at a Thai restaurant in Montrose. We had a great meal and talked up a storm. Charlie and I talked ice climbing practically non-stop, interjected with talking about Chicago since we had both grown up there. But we also talked about the novel Diane had just released on Amazon called “Rockfall,” and Diane and Charlie’s adventures as part of the Highpointers Club (link) which is a group dedicated to bagging the highest point in every stated. Diane has 49 peaks – she says “Just say NO to Denali.” Charlie has all 50, plus all the highest points in every county in Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and Arizona. So, it was a wonderful evening and I feel fortunate that we were able to get together on this trip.

Day 4 – Way too soon it was our last day of climbing. But Karen and I were excited to put our lessons learned on our day with Gary and Jeff to work. We decided to head to South Park, the furthest reach of the park from town. This would give us an opportunity to see the entire park before we left. The hike was a little longer but beautiful.

When we arrived at South Park there were already a lot of people there. But we found the anchor open for Route 14 “Not Without My Anus” WI3 (yeah, that’s the name… in keeping with the South Park TV series theme). Note, there is also a second set of bolt anchors just a few feet to the north that are not in the book. Karen wanted to set this anchor up on her own so I observed and took photos of the area (and Karen) while she worked.

Once she was finished we headed down to the bottom of the canyon via the rope hand line trail. The canyon was full of people but everyone was sharing ropes so that meant we could all climb lots of climbs without moving anchors.  In addition to multiple lines on our rope, we also climbed the unnamed route on the anchor next to our rope, Route 13 “Mr Hanky” WI2, Route 15 “C.H.T” WI2, Route 16 “Super Fun Time” WI4 (it was a super fun time!). The routes were easy enough that we could work on the technique pointers Gary had given us the day before. By mid-afternoon we had climbed a whole bunch and were ready to call it a day. We resisted the urge to climb one more line and hiked back to town. The trip ended on a definite high note!

The next day we departed Ouray at 5am. The weather was beautiful so we decided to take Hwy 50, The Loneliest Highway in America. After a detour due to a cattle drive in Utah we arrived in Truckee around dinnertime. I dropped Karen off and headed home to Sacramento. I was home before 9 pm. Another 16 hour drive under my belt. I can’t wait to head back to Ouray at least once next year!

My full Ouray photo set can be found here.